The Shop > Metal Stuff |
Casting AL molding box |
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micktoon:
Top quality video Ironman :bow: :bow:, I can see what people mean about the handle pattern section of the video but made sense once I knew about it , Thanks for posting :thumbup: Cheers Mick |
ironman:
Your boxes will last a longer with iron.http://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/happy0065.gifhttp://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/happy0065.gif |
vtsteam:
Ironman, question: You put your locating pins in the box sides instead of the handle. Is there a reason for that or just personal preference? I ask because I was thinking that a pin with threads on the end through the handle could be used to clamp the flasks together, and eliminate a bunch of adjustable clamps that you use. The only reason I can think of why I might not want to do that is that in your practice you clamp the top and bottom cover plates together, not just the flasks. And maybe that is because with such shallow copes the sand could push up inside the flask. The plate and clamp setup you use would prevent that. Thanks in advance for your answer! |
vtsteam:
Today's progress -- not as far as I'd hoped. Didn't manage to cast anything. Just made the handle pieces and a larger wooden flask to cast the new aluminum flasks in. Maybe tomorrow...... |
ironman:
Yeah you are right. Because the cope is so thin a plate has to cover the cope to stop the mold distorting and rupturing. The reason I use thin boxes is less sand needs to be used. With the pins it is up to you which way you do it. There is a huge advantage with a forum because if a idea comes up it can be modified and improved for for all who read this post. |
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