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single phase motors.

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DavidA:
vtsteam,

... you could just release the motor drive and rotate the lead screw backwards ..

You can't do this when screw cutting unless you have an indexer to show you where to drop the half-nuts back into mesh with the leadscrew.

If you disengage the mandrel you will lose the synchronization and your thread will be,well, screwed up.

Dave.

vtsteam:
Hi David, releasing the drive on the Gingery lathe means pulling the layshaft and motor assembly forward to slack the belt, not disengage the change gears.

Also, the Gingery change gear construction does include an indexer build.

DavidA:
vtsteam,

Thanks for clearing that up.

If I cut small threads on my lathe (say 20 tpi) I leave the gear train in normal drive and then cut the thread by hand using the crank handle plugged into the end of the mandrel. This is ok for most modeling work.  But if I need to cut,say, 8 tpi it gets a bit tiring and I engage the back-gear and cut under power. The back gear and the lowest speed on the pulleys is about right for threading.
The problem is that it is almost impossible to wind the saddle back using the crank when the back-gear is engaged.

So I ordered the reversing switch and it arrived about an hour ago.
Now I just have to identify the wires on the motor.

Dave.

DavidA:
Well, as I mentioned above,  I now have the switch.
The instructions are not quite as 'detailed' as doubleboost suggested but I am reasonably confident with the diagram

One point. Identifying the start windings.

The motor had two pairs of wires that disappear into the windings.  Both pairs consist of a red and a white wire.  I assume one pair is the start winding.

Question.
Is it the pair that has it's white wire connected via a condenser to the neutral supply (blue wire) ?

Dave.

vtsteam:
Colors are often arbitrary --  one bit of the puzzle -- start windings have higher resistance and are thinner wire than run windings. Can you identify that much?

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