Miniature Scraper plane

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flyingtractors1:
And here we are, parts laid out in proximity as they belong with soldering flux coating the areas that are to be silver soldered (this is really more like brazing than lead soldering). Often the pieces are pinned or tied (with thin wire) on a ceramic board. This is a very trickey procedure but it is magical because when done right the pieces aren't just "glued" together; they really do become one piece as the parts melt into each other without distortion if the temperature applied is carefully regulated. I have used a butane torch to unite smaller pieces and sometimes need to use an oxy acetylene torch. Sounds simple? Well, maybe it is untill a third piece is to be united with the previously joined parts in a multiple piece part. Keeping in mind that brass melts at 1650 to 1720 degrees Fahrenheit when a particular part requires the joining of several pieces that cannot be laid out for a "one shot" soldering, the first union is soldered with a "hard" solder which melts at 1365 degrees; the next union is soldered with "medium" solder which melts at 1275 degrees, and the third union is soldered with "EZ" solder which melts at 1240. Therefore it is important to observe and carefully regulate the soldering temperature in each case so that the second soldering heat does not remelt the first soldered joint and the third heat does not melt the previous two joints causing everything to fall apart or shift rather than adhere in place (I hate it when that happens). This got wordy because it can be a complicated process and much care must be taken. Ralph

Mayhem:
WOW :bugeye:

That is all I can say really...

vtsteam:
Thank you for this series, I'm really enjoying it!

flyingtractors1:
Thanks gents. A little more progress today. I've been anticipating this part with some apprehension because it is a critical operation to do precisely right the first time. The slightest error here could corrupt the entire piece and send me back to square one. And it has heartbreakingly happened in the past. It is important that this procedure be conducted with exacting precision. Sodering flux has been applied to the well cleaned surfaces that will make contact, and the bottom and side plates are positioned in perfect proximity to each other and pinned in place on a ceramic block. Higher temperature silver solder chips are arranged along the contact points, and heat is applied incrementally so that the brass parts achieve the melting temperature of the solder but not a temperature that would damage the brass. It is a thrill when the exact flow temperature is achieved and the silver solder is seen flowing to every contact point between the pieces--first left side, then right side.

A little closer up.

Now the piece is allowed to cool as we wait to examine the results. It is not my intent to make such a big deal of such a small thing, but silver soldering can be very tricky. I have done it enough times in the past to feel confident about my skill level, but not enough times to think that I am an expert. Every time I hold my breath with hopeful anticipation. Ralph

flyingtractors1:
A little progress every day. Sometimes the parts are assembled in their roughstate to make sure that they are compatible and for some tweeking or adjusting. And because I can't wait to see the shape and form that it is taking. This will often happen several times along the way.

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Now comes my least favorite part -- fileing and progressively finer grit sanding. I'll spare you those details, but will also work on minor details of the smallest parts that often require the greatest attention and time. Rarely does it come out the way I want it the first time. Ralph

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