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Pete W's Tin Shed Project.
awemawson:
Pete,
Realistically as you don't have the inside space, with that tarp, just roll it up and hide it somewhere outside, and in the spring spread it on the lawn, and hose and brush it down when it has a chance of drying.
Andrew
Stilldrillin:
Tarps?
I usually commandeer the washing line, during a dry day. :thumbup:
Incidentally...... Is all ok, after yesterday's storm?
David D
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
Thank you all for your posts.
--- Quote from: PeterE on December 18, 2013, 05:48:13 AM ---To dry the tarpaulin I would have done as follows.
Found an indoors space like a garage which is long enough for the long edge of the tarp.
Hang the tarp over a pipe or a wooden "beam" (something like 2x2) and suspend the "beam" from the cieling using ropes.
This way it would not get anymore wet than it is, and may take as long as needed to dry out without being in the way too much.
BR
/Peter
--- End quote ---
Wow, Peter, that would be a space 5 metres long and a bit more than 2 metres high - that's the stuff of dreams! Only Andrew has that sort of space! :D :D :D
--- Quote from: SwarfnStuff on December 19, 2013, 02:39:16 AM ---Well Mr Pete, if you just bung your tarp in a reply paid envelope (about the cost of three new tarps) :lol: and send it down here to OZ it would dry in about 30-45minutes. 40deg C here today (and that's in the southern states). So guess who did not venture into the shed today.
I really enjoyed following your adventures with the shed build.
Thanks for posting.
John B
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the offer, John, 40°C would have me looking for an air-conditioned space somewhere. Actually, if my experience with the smaller leaky tarpaulins even in the UK climate is anything to go by, the UV that probably goes with 40°C would have the tarp in shreds in about 20 minutes flat! :zap: :zap: :zap: With my old felted roof, my workshop was too cold in most of the winter and too hot for a lot of the summer, that's why I've gone for the complication of the roof frame and incorporated the 75 mm (that's nominal - it's actually nearer 82 mm) Kingspan. The walls are already insulated with fibreglass bats between the studs, they have T&G boards on the outside and 6" x 1" planed boards on the inside. Unfortunately, when I committed to that construction for the walls, I didn't know about vapour barriers - it'd be too much of a disruption to fit a vapour barrier in there now.
--- Quote from: awemawson on December 19, 2013, 03:25:24 AM ---Pete,
Realistically as you don't have the inside space, with that tarp, just roll it up and hide it somewhere outside, and in the spring spread it on the lawn, and hose and brush it down when it has a chance of drying.
Andrew
--- End quote ---
Yes, Andrew, that's probably what it'll come down to.
--- Quote from: Stilldrillin on December 19, 2013, 03:41:33 AM ---Tarps?
I usually commandeer the washing line, during a dry day. :thumbup:
Incidentally...... Is all ok, after yesterday's storm?
David D
--- End quote ---
Well, David, it certainly blew some last night, though probably not as fiercely as they got further up-country. Most of the 6' by 6' fence panels between us and the neighbour at the bottom of the garden (on the right in my last two photos) had already come down in the previous blow. Fortunately for me, they are his side of the wire netting fence that defines the boundary (dating from when the houses were built, about 1935) but I've lent him my 9" post hole borer and I'll probably be able to help him a bit now my roof sheets are on. It's the old, old problem - folks go for wooden posts for cheapness but they soon go carrotty at ground level. Not the neighbour's fault, the posts and panels were put in by the previous house-holder. Most of the top 5' of the posts are probably still usable if he bought some concrete spurs and long bolts.
I'm writing this while I recover my breath after a bit of excavation along the front wall of the shed, I should now have a level surface to put a board on to support the foot of the ladder. Then the next job is to fit the fastenings along the high edge of the shed roof.
I visited the local branch of ScrewFix yesterday to buy a roll of 150 mm damp course - I planned to fit it under the flashing on the low edge of the roof to help the rainwater into the gutter. Would you believe it, they were out of stock of all widths of damp course from 100 mm to 232 mm!! :bang: :bang: :bang: Never mind, it was only 20 miles drive each way!!
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
:update: :update: :update:
I have completed some of the tasks listed in my earlier post. I regret that because I've been working to get the most done in each spell of dry weather and/or daylight, I don't have photos yet. If any of the following is a bit difficult to visualise, please be patient until I get a photo opportunity! :bow: :bow: :bow:
I marked out for the fixing screws for the upper edge of the roof sheets, taking the temporary wooden board as my reference to ensure that the screws go into the wooden frame rather than into the Kingspan. I also marked lines in the roof sheet valleys where I would later fit the filler strips for the flashing. Then I removed the board, fitted the eaves filler and drilled and fitted the fixing screws.
After that, I fitted a few repair plates (they'd be more accurately termed 'repair strips' than 'repair plates' as they're 100 mm by 12 mm) between the new frame and the old fascia along the upper edge of the roof. Then I applied double-sided tape to the foam polythene filler strips and positioned them against the previously marked lines on the sheets. Then I fitted a full 3 metre length and a 1 metre length of flashing along the upper edge, over the filler strips, and drilled and screwed the flashing to the tops of the roof sheet boxes. To complete that session, I drilled and screwed the vertical face of the flashing to the edge of the roof frame. The repair plates sit proud of the surface of the frame and fascia, life's too short to have recessed them, and they're not very well countersunk.
The fixing screws pull the flashing in fairly tight where they can so the finished job is wavy, rather reminiscent of the hull plating of a modern welded frigate! :( :( :( :( :( :(
I've found a part-roll of wide plastic damp-proof course - I plan to cut it down to 150 mm and fit it under the flashing on the lower edge of the roof to help the rain water into the existing gutter. I hope the offcut will serve to be attached under the flashing on the upper edge of the roof so as to cover the join between the new roof frame and the old fascia. (The flashing, 150 mm by 150 mm, sits higher on that edge of the roof by the height of the box profiles of the roof sheets.)
Pete W.:
Hi there, all,
:update: :update: :update: :update: :update: :update:
Just taking a break from the annual ritual 'tidy the living room ready for Christmas'. Working hard at it this year in return for my lovely but shy assistant's support in putting up with several of the tote box refugees from the leaky shed roof tarpaulins lodging in the living room for the last few weeks! :clap: :clap: :clap:
They are all clear from the living room now and mostly returned to the big shed. There's still a lot of cleaning up, sorting out and tidy stowing to do in the shed.
The sun showed itself for a few brief spells this morning and I was able to get a few more photos.
Here's one of the flashing along the lower edge of the roof:
And here's a close-up showing the details including the eaves filler:
Here's the corresponding view of the upper edge of the roof:
You can see the holes in the original fascias left after removing the roofing felt nails and you can also see the waviness I referred to in my previous post.
and here's a closer shot:
Here is a view of the flashing on the upper edge looking up the slope of the roof:
and here's a closer shot showing the filler between the roof sheets and the flashing:
The weather forecast for Thursday looks good but as it's Boxing Day I expect we'll be visiting family sometime during the day. Then Saturday doesn't look too bad.
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