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Pete W's Tin Shed Project.

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vtsteam:
I have the same shed! Ten million screws and no panel bigger than about a square foot, and 50 pages of instructions. The first one warns you not to start building if its windy!

I only had to build it once -- I can't imagine re-building it once disassembled. My greatest admiration to you Pete. I thought awemawson's project was complex, but I hadn't realized you were referring to THIS metal shed.  :bow: :med: :beer:

Pete W.:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on July 16, 2013, 09:36:06 PM ---I have the same shed! Ten million screws and no panel bigger than about a square foot, and 50 pages of instructions. The first one warns you not to start building if its windy!

SNIP


--- End quote ---

That sounds like the one although you are exagerpating somewhat.  Not quite ten million screws but quite a lot.  Some are self tapping (aka 'PK') and some have machine thread.  They all have/had square socket mushroom (or flat-domed) heads - I haven't been able to source exact replacements so I've got a mixture of philips and pozi. 
Our wall panels are a bit bigger than a square foot, they go from foundation strips to eaves, but the warning about windy days strikes a chord - I could have done with an extra two lovely but shy assistants!  (   :hammer:  Just temporary, dear, honest.   :hammer:  )

Were all 50 pages of your instructions in English?

vtsteam:
Yes, exaggerating, Pete, though it still took 2 full work days to assemble, even with a screw gun.

I went out and looked at it just now, and realized they aren't exactly the same. Mine has a gambrel roof and is 8x10 feet. A rough count of the outside shows over 300 screws, and you're right, the wall paneling does go floor to ceiling. The roof panels are small however because of the gambrel roof, and If I remember correctly, the building corners are multi-piece. I have 3 ridge poles instead of your 1, of course, and they are built up from smaller pieces. The screws are cross slotted, not square socketed like yours. The instructions are long gone, but probably multilingual.

I do have a few leaks, one I haven't yet located in the roof because it runs along an inside seam -- as a gambrel roof it has more seams to leak. But the major ingress comes along the base. The eaves are pathetically short -- an inch? So water just flows off the roof down the side of the building. Side seams aren't very big so it can also come in that way. There is no floor sealing method supplied with the kit, so water can just seep in along the floor. I did apply putty sealant but it hasn't worked, possibly because of the side seams.

The instructions said to put a prop from the floor to the middle of the peak to prevent snow from collapsing the roof (kit for that not supplied, but purchasable by special order). Quite a disappointment to read that after purchase and construction began. I just used a 2x4 prop -- but no longer an 8 x 10 clear space.

Yours may be different (better) after all, so not meant to be discouraging. I would hate to have to re-build mine again, though!

Pete W.:
Hi there,

Thank you for your post, it's very interesting to compare notes.

Our shed has a ridge 'girder' comprising two sheet metal channels bolted back-to-back.  Then there are two purlins, one halfway down each flank of the roof, they are also metal channels bolted back-to-back.  I had occasion to prop the centre of our ridge girder while I got up on top to fit some screws I'd omitted - I used a 4" by 4" gate-post and some wedges.  We had a volunteer helper to lift the roof on in two halves so we had to do that part of the job when he was available rather than when it suited us!  Ideally, I'd have assembled the roof to a more complete state while it was on the ground and then lifted it onto the walls in one piece but that would have required more level ground than we have as well as needing more muscle.

I haven't left the prop in place - you probably get more snow there than I can recall here in recent years, about 9" maximum.   :scratch:   :scratch:   :scratch: 

I think I said in an earlier post that, as supplied, the shed was a bit short of headroom.  So I mounted it on the 'eco-sleepers' on edge.  That increases the headroom by 200 mm less about 50 mm for the thickness of the floor scaffold boards plus shuttering ply.  It does have the disadvantage that you have to step up and over on entry and exit.

There's an airspace under the floor and permeable limestone scalpings beneath that so any rain that gets in can just go right on through.   :D   :D   :D 
If the rain does come in through the seams between the panels, I shall try running some silicone sealant along the seams.

I do hope to be able to get some plastic guttering close enough in under the eaves to be able to catch the rainwater and send it to a water butt.

Pete W.:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on July 16, 2013, 09:36:06 PM ---I have the same shed! Ten million screws and no panel bigger than about a square foot, and 50 pages of instructions. The first one warns you not to start building if its windy!

I only had to build it once -- I can't imagine re-building it once disassembled. My greatest admiration to you Pete. I thought awemawson's project was complex, but I hadn't realized you were referring to THIS metal shed.  :bow: :med: :beer:

--- End quote ---

Hi there, again, VT,

Looking back, I realise I was a bit churlish about your post, sorry.   :bow:   :bow:   :bow: 

What do you use your metal shed for, is it your main workshop?

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