Potty Lads and Dads Engine

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Stilldrillin:
Crackin' components, nicely produced and shown. :thumbup:

Well done Stew! :clap: :clap:

David D

doubleboost:
I think you have done this before :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Very nice work :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Well shown as well
John

sbwhart:
Thanks for the support Lads :thumbup:

Yes John I think you may be right, the engine is certainly comming together quickly the end is in site :D

I ordered a chunk of 1/4"* 3" ally plate from ebay, for the bed plate I first carfully marked out the position for the cylinder assembly i had to drill and tap 2 more m3 hole into the cylinder base to fix it I intended to screw to go right through the bed plate through the cylinder base into the cylinder but my M3 countersunk cap screws were too short for this hence the extra holes.

Drilled and countersink the bed plate.

Then made the crodd head slide bars from some 1/4" squ mild steel bar, I put the drill vice stop to good use to get them all drilled the same with the stop set and the vice clamped to the table it it just a matter of setting up on the first then driiling it then dito for the rest having first made shure they were all the same length.

Then the spacers were made I just truned a length up enough to make three centrree drilled then drilled through 2.5 than carfully parted them all off to the same length. No pics

Then it was the turn for the supporting pillars it important that these are made to match the assembly so a took my time and measured the centre height of the piston and did a bit of a calculation to get their heght (29.4mm). I made them from some brass hex bar i had in my stash, first I parted four off 31mm long faced and tapped one end M3 and did the same to the other end but M2.5. These pillars need to be all the same exact length, so I fitted my back stop into my lathe head stock.

This is the beast its just a No 3 morse taper with an M8 hole one end for the stops, and a M10 in the other for a draw bar.

And it in the lathe

And with the chuck mounted.

It was just a mater then of setting the sadle facing off at the same setting, to make them all the same allowing .5 for final finished, put on the final .5 flip them round and face off job done.

I then turned a parallel to just leav a short length of hex.

I then carfully marked the position to driil the holes for the pillars in the bed plate ensuring there was enogh room to tkae up the travel of the cross head etc, and then drill and chamfered the bed plate to take m3 countersunk cap screws to hold them

To ensure the valve rod support lined up with the rod a turned a point on a bit of 3mm silver steel mounted it in the valve chest and gave the support a light biff to mark the position for the hole.

Time for a few hows it looking shots.

Not bad just the crank eccentric and the fly wheel to make.

Stew

Stilldrillin:
Looking pretty good Stew! :bugeye: :clap: :clap:

In fact, quite professional...... :thumbup:

David D

sbwhart:
Cheers Dave

The Boss was has been away all day visiting an old school friend, so I was in pigs heaven, all day in the shop.

First bit the crank shaft, turn up and thread the end and cut off

Next bits the crank webs, made from 1/2"*1/4" mild steel bar cut off a couple of bits allowing a bit for cleaning up, then mark out

Then drill both 8mm

Then stick a bit of 8mm bar through both bits and then drill 6mm hole this way the hole centres will be exactly the same for both bits.

Then turn up a 8mm mandrell

Mount both bits to the mandrel tighten up tight abd skim down the ends to form a nice rad

Turn the mandrell down to 6mm mount the bits back onto it and turn the other end down.

Give both parts a tidy up and a polish

Then with high strength loctite assemble the crank shaft and cronk pin.

Just to make sure drill and pin the webs in place.

For the pins use nails cut off just a little longer than required and rivet in place and clean up, and cut out the middle bit of the crank shaft.

Next bit the eccentric to avoid the use of a milling machine this is fabricated in two part plus the eccentric sheath.

Luckily I had a bit of brass tube that was near to dam it the corect size all I had to do was part a ring off, and drill and tap M3 for the shaft.

The eccentric first part was a top hat outer part.

Then the inner part this as the off set for the throw.

Turn up dia for assembly to the top hat bit

Try the fit

Flip it round in the chuck face to thickness and put in a small centre.

Then mark out the throw.

Set it up with a wobble bar

Drill and ream

Turn up the boss

And stick the bits together with high strength loctite

And a try for fit of todays bits.

Stew

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