Is this Mad enough !

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (4/5) > >>

RussellT:
It depends on the crimping - all car connectors are crimped as standard - and it's just as cheap to buy "proper" crimp on connectors and only about £6 for a "proper" tool.

I agree that the plastic covered crimp on connectors are poor. I dislike them almost as much as scotchloks.

Russell

micktoon:
Not much to report even though there have been countless frustrating hours spent on the kart this week, if anyone has seen the film Christine ( where an old car keeps rebuilding itself after getting damaged by the bad guys ) well this kart is the complete oposite of that lol, it does not want to be fixed and fights me every step of the way , nothing has gone right or fitted etc all week ..............is it just me this happens to ?.
Anyway , the wiring is finally done , new leads to starter , new engine earth , new solenoid , new gear shifter switch , new fuel pump and oil pump switches , new clutch switch and more or less every wire and connector changed and I am happy to report its started time after time today :ddb:

Davo , I will have to try that acid core solder , sounds just the job :thumbup: . I think the debate about crimp or solder probably depends on the connectors if they are good quality and where they are located ...... I think its horses for courses and each has its merits up to a point.
The trouble here is, I am just helping a mate out getting it going and working with what is there without trying to get too involved or make it into a bigger job but overall its just not the way I would have done things in the first place, which never makes a job any easier :palm:

Cheers Mick

Brass_Machine:
Sucks to hear of the difficulties. :bang:

I meant to ask you before... before you started working on this, did you sit in the seat and make vrooming noises? I know I would have!!

Eric

DMIOM:
Mick,

I've never made anything that's been used at Santa Pod but my professional training was electrical/electronics and I've made electrical & electronic kit that's survived IoM TT, Spa, rallies, offshore powerboats etc.

With the greatest of respect to other contributors, I think there might have been a mix-up and I would most strongly urge you to avoid acid-cored (plumber's) solder - what you want is proper rosin-cored solder (which is almost invariably what any flux-cored solder sold for electrical use is). If you do manage to get hold of some acid-cored solder, it will almost invariably say on it "not for electrical or electronics use".

The issue with flux-cored solder is that almost invariably some spent flux will remain after the joint has been soldered, especially when securing something like a multi-stranded cable inside a connector's ferrule. Even spent rosin-cored is mildy corrosive - but orders of magnitude less than acid-cored. The problem with using acid-cored solder for this type of work is that its really an "acid pencil fuse". It may well give you a good join for long enough to get the kart out of your workshop - but the quality of the connection will be deteriorating from the day you did the job.

You can get rosin-flux-removing solvents for cleaning PCBs, and "no clean" rosin-flux-cored solders - but they're not really necessary for this type of electrical work.

Dave

dsquire:

--- Quote from: DMIOM on April 02, 2013, 04:26:10 AM ---Mick,

I've never made anything that's been used at Santa Pod but my professional training was electrical/electronics and I've made electrical & electronic kit that's survived IoM TT, Spa, rallies, offshore powerboats etc.

With the greatest of respect to other contributors, I think there might have been a mix-up and I would most strongly urge you to avoid acid-cored (plumber's) solder - what you want is proper rosin-cored solder (which is almost invariably what any flux-cored solder sold for electrical use is). If you do manage to get hold of some acid-cored solder, it will almost invariably say on it "not for electrical or electronics use".

The issue with flux-cored solder is that almost invariably some spent flux will remain after the joint has been soldered, especially when securing something like a multi-stranded cable inside a connector's ferrule. Even spent rosin-cored is mildy corrosive - but orders of magnitude less than acid-cored. The problem with using acid-cored solder for this type of work is that its really an "acid pencil fuse". It may well give you a good join for long enough to get the kart of your workshop - but the quality of the connection will be deteriorating from the day you did the job.

You can get rosin-flux-removing solvents for cleaning PCBs, and "no clean" rosin-flux-cored solders - but they're not really necessary for this type of electrical work.

Dave

--- End quote ---

Dave

Many thanks for clearing up the acid/rosin core solder question. I have seen what acid core solder can do over the years and it isn't pretty. Thanks

Cheers :beer:

Don

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version