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Milling machine tram tool

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Stilldrillin:
John,

My first tramming was done using a blunt tooled 16" flycutter & feeler gauges.

Then in later years, a finger clock in a bent piece of tube.......

Now, soon to be a born again miller....
I`ve got the clock..... Searching for a suitable piece of tube.  ::)


I am really intrigued by this double headed delight.  :thumbup:

David.

SPiN Racing:
<Watches closely taking notes>

Taking a deep breath and going to look at what Im doing and start to try to tighten my tolerences up... so I go from making it work.. to doing it correctly.

Scott

Darren:
Nice project, I realise what it is now  :clap:

I guess accurate machining is required here, maybe later for me then  :lol:

Interesting use of a left handed tool John, any partic reason, or just because you can

bogstandard:
Thanks lads, I will see what I can get done this evening.

It looks so easy to make, in fact it is, but because it ends up as a precision tool, the quality has to be kept high.

You could actually do a real roughie on it, and as long as the holes are vertical to the bottom face and that bottom face is perfectly flat, it could be rescued by the final operation (to be shown later). But then it would just be a roughie tool with no real pride involved, and as such would not be treated so kindly during it's life.

Darren,

How many times have you used your left hand tool? I bet hardly ever.

By mounting it in the way I have, I find it is perfect for both normal right hand cutting, facing, and if needed, it can be swung around, reclamped,  and used for it's correct job. So really, in conjuction with my profile tool, I find I can carry out about 90% of jobs on the lathe with it, and gives me a better view of the parts being machined, not having the toolpost holder blocking the view. Plus pure laziness on my part, it saves me having to swap tools about.

John

bogstandard:
Another hour or so's work coming up.

As I am making this for an internet friend, and the dimensions given to me were in metric, at sometime during this post I have to use all metric measurements to get to where I want to be. I will be using 125mm between the dial gauge tips, plus 15mm at either end for the gauge clamp system. If you are working in Imperial, just use your own figure for the central measurement, plus a converted 15mm at either end. The end bits aren't too critical, but don't make them any smaller.




So after covering the side that was to slide on the bandsaw table, just to protect the surface finish, I hacked off the spare at the end.




After setting the bar onto parallels, both ends were cleaned up without removing too much metal.




The final length isn't critical, as long as it isn't under your length minimum limit. All I needed was a final length, so that I could find exact centre of the bar.
Unfortunately, my 6" digivern just wasn't quite long enough, so I had to revert to old mechanical tooling. This is most probably more accurate than the digivern anyway.




So now I had the OAL and width, I can easily find exact centre both ways.
The bar was tapped down gently onto a pair of thin paras.




The reason for the thin paras is that I need to drill right thru the bar, so I checked with the largest sized drill I will be using, just to make sure I won't be trying to drill steel as well as aluminium.




So I have a piece of ali all centred up in the vice, ready to start drilling. Turn on the camera, and squeak, crunch. The lens locked up solid, and wouldn't turn itself onto picture taking mode. So after the usual battery change, hitting it all ways from saturday, it still refuses to go.

So sorry gents, unless you want to carry on without piccies, all my posts are now piccy suspended until I can get my hands on a decent digicam.

I will have a bit of a twiddle tomorrow to see if Darrens vinegar trick will work, but I doubt it.

After many thousands of pics over the last six years, it is time to say goodbye.

R.I.P. Fuji S5000, you have done me well. You are destined to be recycled into other things.


Man in black Bogs.

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