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| sbwhart:
Assembling the base. The important thing with the base is keeping everything aligned and square. First job was to do some crib sheets for holes centres and co-ordinates this required a bit of adding and subtracting and devision easy with a calulator pic shows the hole centres and the co-ordintes used to drill the base, the vertical treated in a symilar way. To get the correct position of the holes its important that you locate the edge of the plate, there are a number of diferent ways to do this, I use the cigerette paper method this is the way I was shown when I was an apprentice:- its best to use the method you are happy with. The base was the first to be drilled M3 clearance and countersunk for cap screw heads, the air way holes were only centre drilled at this point. The vertical was then set up on an angle plate taking care that the angle plate was square to the table and the fixing holes drilled and tapped. The base and the vertical were screwed together and the assembly clamped on the angle plate. One edge was set up level with the edge of the anlge plate as a datum. The air ways were drilled with 1/8 long series drills. When drilling long holes its important to keep clearing the drill out of the hole (pecking) to clear away the swarf otherwise is will build up and break the drill. WD 40 was used to help the drill cut clean. On the centre line the fixing holes for the cylinder was drilled, with an additional clamp over the top giving additional support Keeping the same datum edges the base was flipped over to drill the fixing holes for the other cylinder this way everything was on the same centre line. At this point I've enough bits for a trial assembly this is what it looks like with the wobbly wheel Its a pity I've got to remake the wheel hub as its getting close to a trial run, it needs a bit of bling on the base and a bit of final fitting elbows squaring up etc. I didn't find that an easy to right up hope you chaps under stood it Cheers Stew |
| NickG:
Stew, your write up makes perfect sense to me. :thumbup: The engine is looking TOO good! If it assembles with the wobbly flywheel hub, how good is it going to be with a striaght one! :bow: Nick |
| Darren:
Yep I understood what you meant so it must be ok.. :lol: Stew, I only hope I can make something to your standard one day, that is looking real good and so methodical :thumbup: |
| Divided he ad:
Loud 'n' clear Stew :thumbup: I am really glad your showing this too.... I've got a couple of angle plates that were donated by a not so anonymous benefactor ( Hi John :wave:) I haven't used them yet but I'm sure learning ways and methods of doing so :) A quick flywheel remake :bugeye: And it'll all be down to the fiddling and faffing about :bang: :med: :bang: :med: :bang: :med: :coffee: :doh: :ddb: (a representation of moods expected in smileys :lol: ) As long as your still having fun it's all good ehh!? Ralph. |
| cedge:
Stew Here is a little trick I discovered when my first flywheel wobbled. Since it is a press fit, it can be straightened. Chuck the flywheel in your lathe and get your hands on a piece of 1/4 or 5/16 inch wooden dowel rod. Mount the dowel in your tool holder and move it over so that one end touches the inner section (at high point of wobble) of the flywheel. (we'll assume the central hub is already running true) Turn on the lathe and slowly but gently move the dowel rod into the face of the flywheel. Watch until it runs true. Then move to the outer rim and repeat the process. You might have to move back and forth a couple of times, but you will quickly kill off the wobbles. So far it's worked great for me. Steve |
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