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| John Stevenson:
Job I'm doing at the moment is a sump for a racing bike. Got a choice use the laser and do it in layers or use the router. With using the router I have to draw this up in 3D because of the shape, then program it in a 3D package, then cut it. Because I'm not that good at 3D this is going to take me a while, possibly a few nights but it's not wasted as it's a learning curve. Where the waste comes in is the cutting, because it's a sump there is a lot of material to remove inside, a quick guestimate puts the cutting at about 4 hours machine time. Because the laser is faster, non contact so no fancy jigs needed to allow it to machine inside and out and the fact it doesn't have to pocket the inner but instead it can profile the inner shape the cutting time is under 20 minutes allowing for changing sheets etc. Any errors or mistakes like the pattern splitting can easily be rectified with the laser by cutting a new sheet. With the router it's start again time. |
| Monkey with a mill:
I was wondering what brand your laser cutter is as well as what drew you to that model? How many watts does it it put out and how thick of various material can it cut? I would like to buy one in the near future, so would appreciate any advise on what to look for and what to avoid. |
| sparky961:
The possibilities are endless when you start adding layers of profile cut parts. We make short run press brake dies for odd stuff this way at work. It's a pretty common practice in the metal working industry. -Sparky |
| AussieJimG:
Sounds like thre is a case for roughing with the laser then finishing with the router if filleted corners are needed. Jim |
| Alan Haisley:
John, Is there any good reason that the laser head couldn't be set up with programmable pivot in two directions? It would complicate programming but would allow the laser to produce the draft angle. Alan |
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