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| Parslow's Skeleton Clock by Raynerd |
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| raynerd:
Many thanks to everyone who has taken the time to reply and great to see so much support for using the CNC. I must admit, it did get me thinking...if the gaps between teeth are 0.92mm, without checking im pretty sure it is, and you can get end mills right down to stupidly small sizes, in theory, could the entire wheel be cut via CNC!! Anyway, thoughts for another day... John, John, mick and Rob, thanks for the message and support in using the CNC. Funnily enough I'm always shocked with the amount of CNC work in these so called hand build watches. I was watching a YouTube video of the apprentice of the late George Daniels, and even his expensive "hand built" watches used many CNC cut parts and pieces! Alan,I did think of s spokes but in my opinion, was worried that would look a little OTT. Although I've used modern CNC, I like the traditional straight cross outs. VTsteam... Well worth cobbling one together. I've not tested my runout lately but it was pretty damn good last time I put it together and it is bloody hurtling around a some speed, 14,000rpm according to mach3 and home brew tachometer. All that on some standard skate board bearings. To be honest, with the new power supply showing that this is clearly a useful and functional spindle, I'd be tempted to now upgrade the bearings. The only warning people keep telling me about with these outrunner motors. Is them running too hot but I've to experienced this at all. Certainly no where I can feel anyway. NickG - yes very satisfying, I was pleased that my CNC could accurately cut wood and drag engrave metAl. However, with the new power supply on the spindle, I can actually cut brass which has just pushed the mAchine into a whole new level of usefulness for me!! I mad the machine using 1/2 ally plate and steel supports, with the x axis running on 2 steel bar support slides AND a more expensive steel brace and linear bearing. The entire machine is mounted on be large .5" ally plate bed, so for such a small machine the thing is pretty rigid. I've always been confident it could do useful work if I found a small enough but rigid enough spindle to match, Stew - thanks for replying. You were a real inspiration a few years back now when you took the time and effort in trying to make a clock wheel with me. I've never really stopped trying since then! And finally one of the wheels cleaned up a bit... |
| Alan Haisley:
--- Quote from: raynerd on February 18, 2013, 07:25:12 PM ---Many thanks to everyone who has taken the time to reply and great to see so much support for using the CNC. I must admit, it did get me thinking...if the gaps between teeth are 0.92mm, without checking im pretty sure it is, and you can get end mills right down to stupidly small sizes, in theory, could the entire wheel be cut via CNC!! Anyway, thoughts for another day... --- End quote --- Or at least you could gash the teeth and really reduce what the gear cutter needs to do. :smart: Alan |
| Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: raynerd on February 16, 2013, 06:25:25 PM --- So there it is...I've cheated and used CNC but hey ho...I built the CNC machine itself so that surely that scores me some points back!?!? :dremel: --- End quote --- The use of CNC on this board should never be considered "cheating". Eric |
| raynerd:
:wave: still here! Did a bit more tonight. I wanted to make the mainspring barrel but after my disaster last time I was worried about making such a thick wheel again. I have been lucky to borrow a Thornton cutter, not because the home made one was dud, just because I spoilt it when I slipped on the last cut. I was also struggling for suitable thick brass tube until my pal suggested an old barrel and cut the wheel off! I dug out an old mainspring barrel with snapped teeth: Cut off the wheel and cleaned it up: I then cut the groove in my wheel to match the barrel: The plans say to silver solder the two together or soft solder. I would prefer to silver solder but I'll need to get it really hot and will the brass discolour and need a lot of working in polishing it back up....especially in areas I can't even get to??? Any thoughts? Chris |
| andyf:
--- Quote from: raynerd on May 29, 2013, 07:04:09 PM ---The plans say to silver solder the two together or soft solder. I would prefer to silver solder but I'll need to get it really hot and will the brass discolour and need a lot of working in polishing it back up....especially in areas I can't even get to??? Any thoughts? --- End quote --- Having regard to the quote below, which appeared on another forum yesterday, it looks like you need the lowest melting point you can get if using silver solder, and aim the flame down into the barrel. Those teeth might heat up a bit quickly if the flame gets on them. Andy Quote: ".....turns out that you can heat Brass parts too much... found a nice spring clamp to hold the parts I was soldering next, got everything clean and fluxed up, poured the heat on and soldered nicely - when everything was cool I pulled the spring clamp off to find that it had sunk into the brass by about 2mm!" |
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