Author Topic: Leveling a Miller  (Read 3660 times)

Offline rotorhead

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Leveling a Miller
« on: January 16, 2013, 08:46:09 PM »
Hi Lads,

I did a job a few months ago, which required a reasonable amount of accuracy, however it showed the miller to be slightly out of kilter.

Sooo, having some time spare(made redundant), I set about making a leveling frame for the base..

I'd ordered and received the 125x75x10 angle, already had a couple of 1-7/8" x 8tpi (UNS) studs, machined a hex at about half way, sawed in half, hey presto 4 bolts.

Only had a 55deg tipped boring bar to play with, anyway who's bothered about 5degs at that size, had some weldable bar for the nuts, some thick walled square section, and welded to side of frames.

Will show a bit more progress in a while.

Chris
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline rotorhead

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Re: Leveling a Miller
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2013, 04:16:55 AM »
Hi again,

Got a bit more done, made some socketted feet, thinking about putting a ball bearing in the end of the bolts, - if I can get some 5/8" or 3/4" balls, to help reduce skewing whilst adjusting.

The workshop being an elongated car garage, is a bit confining whilst stick welding, fumes build up, so utilized the summer fan to freeze me kna***rs off, but aid breathing.

As always with any job I attempt, there is another tool to make or modify, I wanted to centre the ends of the studs to hold on the miller to do the hex's, one of them wouldn't run true enough, so set about making a tool block to utilize a steady finger.

Milled and cut the blocks to size, needed to bore/ream at lathe centre height, bought a 25mm mt3 reamer from Tracy(here next day), but I tried to take out too much in one go, and ended up slightly oversize for my liking.

I wanted to use the block for my 25mm boring bars when I'd finished this job, but ended up reaming with an adjustable one, which was not running true from the shank, so gripped the extension guide and trued up the shank.

Anyway the bore ended up 1", so made a sleeve to reduce down to the steady finger size, I can then make sleeves for 20mm, 16mm and 12mm boring bars, or make up a 1" bar to take whatever tips I have the most of (seems to be TCMT 16T3)

Used the finger steady to true up the end of the stud for centering, worked a treat, moving on a bit now, but you will no doubt have had similar experiences in attempting home workshop practices, practicing being the operative word here.

The pics might be jumbled up, sorry.

Chris

Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline rotorhead

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Re: Leveling a Miller
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2013, 05:13:00 PM »
Hi again,

Finally got it done, bought some 3/4" balls from a bearing and sundries dealer, DRP in Grimsby, it really is a gold mine, I have no connection other than a very satisfied customer. (Hope I'm not infringing board protocols)

Slot drilled the base of the bolts, 3/4" dia x 5/8" deep, then peened the balls in with a supply of grease, it really makes all the difference in adjusting the bolts.

Put everything in place and adjusted all the bolts down by an inch, to give me a starting point in leveling, pics are the proof. 

Chris
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline micktoon

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Re: Leveling a Miller
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2013, 05:34:31 PM »
Cracking job Chris :bow: :bow: :bow: :thumbup: , just what I like to see nice and heavy duty, they sure wont bend or snap when in use  :clap:, Top Marks  :drool: :drool:
  Cheers Mick.

Offline rotorhead

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Re: Leveling a Miller
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2013, 04:11:34 AM »
Hi Mick,

Thanks for the encouragement.

Yes they have be heavy duty, that bl**dy miller weighs a ton maybe more.

It'll be a lot easier to move around now, to get to the motor and belts, just wind down the screws and put rollers under.

Just got make a tramming tool now, the list is endless......

Chris
Chris
Sunny Scunny,
North Lincolnshire.

Offline Fredbare

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Re: Leveling a Miller
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2013, 11:08:46 AM »
Thanks for sharing that Chris.

John