Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
Headstock Spindle Back Stop
PeterE:
Hi again,
Tiling done and now on the finishing of the walls. Ran out of silicone caulking (required by regulations) to fill the corner joints of the walls and around any pipe that comes out of the wall. All looking good so far.
Then looked into this thread and got even more food for thought :thumbup:
Andy, good to know that the lock nut is not hardened, then I presume mine isnīt either as My lathe is a SIEG C3. (Have to make that change from single row ball bearings to taper rollers. Most people I have read info from says that this is the way to go. Itīs on my To-Do-list.)
Tom, the nut and how much of the spindle is sticking out is to me the first important matter to decide on before continuing the idea I think. Then what comes in the other end of the thing I make is the following step. Your suggestion is very close to how Mike Cox solved it on his machine ...
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/spindle-extension.html
... where he also used the extension as the second lock nut. What feels good with the solution from Andy is that I am not "forced" to use the extension piece as a lock nut, something I think will make the addition more versatile.
DMIOM, Your idea with the spider for long bars is already on the list, the only thing is how to include it in the final solution :thumbup: . It is one of the uses that makes me investigate the different possibilities available.
Dickeybird (Milton), Yes very useful info there on your solution :beer: . Just got to ask; Are you threading the main block onto the end of the spindle?
rotorhead (Chris), Very clever setups I must say. They also seem quite easy to attach. Are you securing the division crank in the first picture using an expansion inside the spindle tube?
Well, I think the ideas are kind of forming themselves now. A possible solution will most probably be based on an extension piece threaded onto the rear end of the spindle. The two lock nuts will become one to give room for that, and the single lock nut will most probably get at least two set screws with copper pads (GHT style) to really make sure the position is locked good.
The extension piece will get a threaded end as well, onto which I can either put a 60 tooth gear for division using my simple setup, or a "nut" with three M6 socket head scerws making a spider for long stuff (or maybe even both at the same time?). The extension piece will be made long enough to protrude through the gear cover so as to make swarf coming through the spindle drop on the outside instead of inside among the gears.
Have to draw this to see where it goes, will be back!
Thank you so much for ideas and comments. :thumbup: :headbang: :D
BR
/Peter
rotorhead:
I received a notice whilst prepping this reply, the crank is located by a rusty looking tapered caphead screw, directly into the spindle protruding out of the rear, it's a handy place for all manner of attachments.
I also made up bar centering sleeves, an adjustable screw type chuck, drawbar guide and a backstop, I'm afraid my backstop was very limiting to length
I actually posted the pics wrong way around, I used the rotab to help make the division plate for the end of the spindle.
I was making some 125 div micrometer dials for my MkI Clarkson, the MkII comes with that refinement.
The bracket was also used to help get the number stamping in line, on the dial seen doing on the lathe.
Lastly, apologies for semi-hijacking this thread.
PeterE:
Hi Chris,
No need to apologize, this kind of diversions is really helpful and broadens the subject very helpfully. :beer:
I think your solutions are great and combining several functions using the same set of attachments gives a great versatility to the lathe.
BR
/Peter
rotorhead:
Hi Peter,
Thank you for your positive comments, I do try to design whatever tool/jig I'm trying to make, to be of multiple use, as resources and materials are limited.
I also find that most of what I originally intended to make, usually incurs the making of several other bits of equipment, I call them my 10 to 1 jobs.
Do the rest of you usually find this?
Chris
DICKEYBIRD:
--- Quote from: PeterE on November 25, 2012, 04:07:08 PM ---Dickeybird (Milton), Yes very useful info there on your solution :beer: . Just got to ask; Are you threading the main block onto the end of the spindle?
--- End quote ---
Sorry 'bout the slow response Peter; I somehow missed your question. You're probably finished with yours by now but I'll post this anyway.
Yes, I started with an extra preload spanner nut I purchased from Grizzly for a 9x20 lathe on the gamble it would fit the threads on my Compact 8 clone. It did fit perfectly but a little bit of bluing & scraping was required to get a good mate with the existing nut.
My lathe spindle had about the same number of threads as yours and it doesn't take many threads to hold it very solidly as long as the mating surfaces fit well. Once I had the nut fitting well, I mounted a chunk of aluminum to it with 3 allen head screws and loctite and went from there. I use it often and it works very well. Should'a made one long ago!
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