Gallery, Projects and General > How to's

How to fasten electrodes on a spot welder ???

(1/2) > >>

ksor:
I need some advice on how to connect/fasten an electrode to the jaw on my spot welder  :smart:

You can choose language for translation in the upper right corner !

Look here and ... yeah, come up with some good ideas  :drool:

http://kelds.weebly.com/punktsvejser.html

awemawson:
Well viewing with the 'English' option set certainly displays in a language I don't regcognize as that spoken by our dear Queen!!!!!

The electrode tips in my spot welder are retained by tapered cotter pins (*)  into the electrode arms- you set the position then tap them lightly with a hammer. The electrode arms are retained by a split clamp arrangement tightened using a hex allen key.

(*) Cotter pins - the English meaning like those that retain the pedal crank on a bicycle to the bottom bracket shaft not the American version that we call a split pin. ie a cylinder with a slice removed at an angle to the axis to form a cylindrical wedge, retained in the case of a bicycle by a nut on a threaded extension, and in the case of a spot welder by a whack with a hammer !!!!!

ksor:

--- Quote from: awemawson on November 10, 2012, 02:00:09 PM ---Well viewing with the 'English' option set certainly displays in a language I don't regcognize as that spoken by our dear Queen!!!!!

The electrode tips in my spot welder are retained by tapered cotter pins (*)  into the electrode arms- you set the position then tap them lightly with a hammer. The electrode arms are retained by a split clamp arrangement tightened using a hex allen key.

(*) Cotter pins - the English meaning like those that retain the pedal crank on a bicycle to the bottom bracket shaft not the American version that we call a split pin. ie a cylinder with a slice removed at an angle to the axis to form a cylindrical wedge, retained in the case of a bicycle by a nut on a threaded extension, and in the case of a spot welder by a whack with a hammer !!!!!

--- End quote ---

The translation ... argh, Google has to better on that issue - you'r just right, but I'm sure an english man understand this Google-english better than the original danish - right ! :med:

Any arrangement going AROUND the electrode will of couse take up space - and that's not adviseable concerning the FIXED jaw - it should be as small as posible - could the 8 X 8mm elektrode be welded to the end of the 30 X 8 mm jaw ?

But the welding method can not be used for fastening the electrode to the moveable jaw  :bang:  but normaly here will be more space for an arrangement like ours ... yeah maybe  :med:
 

buffalow bill:
Ksor,
How about making the two arms from steel, provided they are insulated from each other at the machine end. The two electrodes, bolt to the arms, then use welding cable for the electrickery bit. This will give you the flexibility at the upper arm. If the transformer is suitable the welding cable may be threaded around the tf core thus eliminating connections at the transformed. To terminate at the welding tips use brass bolts to secure the cable lugs. This depends upon the size of transformer and welding current.
Depending upon what you are welding, it is possible to anneal the weld. Keep pressure on the welded parts, add a delay then activate the welding transformer but at a lower setting.
Hope this helps.  :beer:
Bill

PS If welding cable is a problem, it is better to use lots of small section copper rather than one large section. High density current will flow along the outside of the conductor.

ksor:

--- Quote from: buffalow bill on November 10, 2012, 06:58:27 PM ---Ksor,
How about making the two arms from steel, provided they are insulated from each other at the machine end. The two electrodes, bolt to the arms, then use welding cable for the electrickery bit. This will give you the flexibility at the upper arm. If the transformer is suitable the welding cable may be threaded around the tf core thus eliminating connections at the transformed. To terminate at the welding tips use brass bolts to secure the cable lugs. This depends upon the size of transformer and welding current.
Depending upon what you are welding, it is possible to anneal the weld. Keep pressure on the welded parts, add a delay then activate the welding transformer but at a lower setting.
Hope this helps.  :beer:
Bill

PS If welding cable is a problem, it is better to use lots of small section copper rather than one large section. High density current will flow along the outside of the conductor.

--- End quote ---
8
I think the arms should be made of cobber or aluminum - but I HAVE some cobber rods 30 X 8 mm !

What worries me is the the lack of contact in my collections bolted with bolts of steel - I think it CAN be a problem at high current flow = 2-400 Amps - but I have to make the surfaces as smooth as posible and high tension on the bolts too.

I think I have the right solutions now and I have updated my drawings.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version