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Solder resist on home made pcbs

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picclock:
OK, I've tried the tippex and it seems to work really well. Got a scrap board with a 20 thou track running through a channel of 15 thou gap either side, the only way it would bridge was when I had built up about 2mm of solder height. Only slight issue is tippex application, which may need a thinner brush and possible Isoprop dilution.

Many thanks for the tip John - for me with my poorer eyesight and not such a steady hand this is a real gamechanger.

Best Regards

picclock

awemawson:
The thinner for Tipex used to be rather exotic if I remember right - benzene or something similar. No doubt the health and safety polic have banned it by now and it's probably water based and useless.

John Rudd:

--- Quote from: picclock on October 12, 2012, 11:23:48 AM ---OK, I've tried the tippex and it seems to work really well. Got a scrap board with a 20 thou track running through a channel of 15 thou gap either side, the only way it would bridge was when I had built up about 2mm of solder height.
--- End quote ---

Brill...... :D Good to hear it works..

Must be about the best advice I've had to offer on this forum :scratch:

Pete.:

--- Quote from: picclock on October 12, 2012, 11:23:48 AM ---OK, I've tried the tippex and it seems to work really well. Got a scrap board with a 20 thou track running through a channel of 15 thou gap either side, the only way it would bridge was when I had built up about 2mm of solder height. Only slight issue is tippex application, which may need a thinner brush and possible Isoprop dilution.

Many thanks for the tip John - for me with my poorer eyesight and not such a steady hand this is a real gamechanger.

Best Regards

picclock

--- End quote ---

Tip-ex pen?

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: John Rudd on October 12, 2012, 08:58:22 AM ---
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on October 12, 2012, 07:07:56 AM ---Flux. Flux pen or whatever PCB-stuff you have.
 Closely spaced componenets need flux or all soder runs together and takes way too long to heat up pads/pins without it.

Pekka

--- End quote ---

Which is what he's trying to avoid... :) I suggested Tippex but I've never tried it myself but have heard it works... :zap:

--- End quote ---

Good thing that the job got done.

I think you are confusing conventional terminology and processes with PCB/Electronics soldering.

To avoid the mess, flux made for electronics should be used. It doesn't only "wet" the solder, but does its part to prevent bridging. Less solder also helps. There are laquers to help soldering process and some kit/ready made PCBs may have it.

I use Multicore 6381:
http://krayden.com/tds/henk_multicore_6381_tds.pdf

But there are very many same kind of products that would work. Only trouble is that there are many different needs and process, so which one to choose.

This should be pretty much foolproof for fixing stuff and manual soldering of small components:
http://www.stannol.de/WS_Flux/TDB_HP_Fine_Fluxer_3000+_EN.pdf


Rest is YouTube tutorials, they are pretty long, but information packed:

Here is a right way to solder small component:
&NR=1

This is very good, many different techniques:
&feature=fvwrel

This is OLD:

But works very well on old stuff and leadbased solders.

I could not find the one video that had all wrong. The guy did not clean PCB (isopropyl alcohol), did not use flux, had too small iron and dwell over every leg too long.

Pekka

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