| Gallery, Projects and General > Gallery |
| laser. |
| << < (3/9) > >> |
| Lykle:
Oh wow Tweaky, that looks very good! Next question, how does that look on Aluminium or Stainless Steel? And of course, do you have a build log of the device? Because more and more I have a need for engraving, and this is much better than engraving. So I would love to make something like this. Although stuck out here in the boondocks is not the best place to be to build something like this. But I can try. Lykle |
| John Stevenson:
Won't work on alumium, very hard to mark without some stuff called Ceemark which is an aerosol that cost £100 a tin [ no typo ] It contains a ceramic slurry made from ground up 3rd century Ming vases, hence the price. The laser melts this and fuses it to the surface, it's suitable for most metals. You can do stainless easily but spraying the surface with some dry moly lube [ £12 a tin from RS - better ] and then laser it into the surface Screwcutting chart but had problems with distortion [ since fixed ] but this gives you an idea of what it can do. Next step is to switch the air assist off and try fusing power coat powder onto alloy. John S. {edit} Sorry knackered the link up. |
| Tweakie:
As John said, my CO2 laser will not mark aluminium without an additive. However, it will ablate the dye layer in anodized aluminium as shown on this scrap piece of black anodized. Tweakie. |
| Rob.Wilson:
Nice job John :thumbup: Did the heat build up in the plate make the etching go darker (amusing it was etched top left to bottom right) in the bottom right corner ? Rob |
| John Stevenson:
Rob, No the job was crap but it proved the concept. The reason it darker bottom right is the plate warped with the heat and curled up, this then altered the focal length of the beam so you get fatter letters which hold more black. same at the top as it did all the lines and circles first, then went on to do the lettering. The last lettering to do was at the top and because of the curl it's missed the circles. Best example is the middle of the plate except the two last lines as I tried to see if it would push down and moved the plate. When I do them not I pin them to a big block of alloy and do the lettering in stages to allow the heat to dissipate. Another way of doing these is to take a sheet of normal perspex, spray the back silver using a Willco rattle can, burn the image on the back in reverse, then rattle can it black. This gives you a nice plate and smooth on the front so the lettering can't wear off. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |