Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop

Tapered Gibs

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TroyO:
I think you want to use something softer than the machine parts so any wear happens to the small part instead of the larger bearing surfaces.

Wear out the gib, not the dovetails in other words.

I still don't think the table will ever ship..... I'm now toying with the idea of making a 24" ish dovetailed table out of cast iron (4x1.5x24) and bolting an 8020 T-slot extrusion to the top... that way the T-slot area would be replacable.... random rambelings.

mzt:
Wonder if You had grit between gibs and ways: where would it get embedded, and what would wear?
Marcello

velocette:

--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on September 23, 2012, 09:46:56 PM ---Very cool.

I ended up buy THIS from LMS (with a spare saddle) and plan to recut the dovetails to 60*... with brass gibs

--- End quote ---

Best bit if kit that anyone can fit to an X2 mill  saves you from having to stiffen up the rather flimsy tilt arrangement

It always is a pity that manufactures do not consult with the end users before going into a production run to sell us something they think we should have.

Then see what a clever and inventive body of mechanics is out there in all sorts of workshops.

I wonder if they ever take the time and login to "Mad Modder" and se what is out there

Eric

TroyO:
MZT, my inclination is that the grit would embed mostly in a softer gib, and scratch the ways only a little.

If the materials are of identical/similar hardness it scratches both about 1/2 way.

Imagine sand on a sponge on a piece of glass.... not ideal, but not as bad as sand sandwiched between glass on glass....

I have 0 research or information to back that up, it's just the way I imagine it.

Jonny:
All quality machines have both dovetail and gibs hardened.
To name a few Cincinnati, Churchill, Snow, DSG, Harrison, Ward, even ones that have a hardened V with hardened ball bearings that run in it.

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