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| Convert 4-jaw to front-mount? |
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| hopefuldave:
I'd like to put a 4-jaw independent chuck (an Ebay cheapo, threaded holes in the back) on my Vertex rotary table (about the same size as the chuck...) - but to keep it low-ish profile, I don't want to put it on a Morse taper adaptor and threaded backplate - is there any reason I shouldn't clamp it upside-down to the rotary table (using its jaws...), drill holes at 90-degree intervals and then flip it over and counterbore the front face, then just bolt through into T-nuts? I appreciate that I'd have to indicate it in when attaching it to the rotary (or make up a Morse taper stub to fit the chuck bore), but I'd be indicating the work in anyway! It would be use-on-the-rotary only, so worries about balance and centrifugal force Vs strength disappear... Dave H. (the other one) |
| DICKEYBIRD:
Hey Dave, I had a similar issue a few years ago and copied Sir John's method which worked well. It has 4 holes drilled around the perimeter of the existing chuck adapter and some clever T-bolts/screws he came up with. Here's a link with some pics. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/24344-Mounting-a-160mm-chuck-on-a-150-mm-rotary-table?highlight=ROTARY+TABLE |
| hopefuldave:
Thanks, Dickey, Sir John's does need a backplate though, which is something I was hoping to avoid - ideally I'd add a D1-5 camlock nose to the rotary so I could pop the chucks / faceplates straight on from the lathe, but I'd lose a bit too much headroom with that and a D1-5 backplate! D1-5 backplates seem as rare as rocking horse droppings, too, and I only have a couple left which I want to save for the lathe... If I were to turn the chuck "upside down" and centre it on the table and then crank and rotate through 90* a few times, I should be able to spot and drill the four through-holes pretty accurately, at least on the back... hopefully they wouldn't wander too much before they emerged on the front (visible) face! So... any *structural* reasons not to drill the chuck? Dave H. (the other one) |
| andyf:
I suppose you could use John S's method, but drill/tap the chuck itself, rather than a backplate, for the clamping screws. But in principle, there's no reason why you shouldn't drill though the chuck so you can pass bolts through into T-nuts. After all, the body of an independent 4-jaw is essentially a big lump of iron, and as long as you space the holes evenly between jaw slots, there are no internal mechanisms to damage. You might need to consider how in practice you are going to line up the T-nuts so their threaded holes are in the right places for the bolts to drop into them ready for screwing home. Not too difficult, if things are arranged so that when the outer edges of the T-nuts are flush with the outside of the rotab, and the chuck is more or less centred on the rotab, the holes in the T-nuts are in the right places to receive the bolts. Chamfers in the T-nuts would help the bolts find their way in. Andy |
| sshire:
Here's what I have on my rotary table. Easy on and off. Nicely made. http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-1-4-4-Jaw-Chuck-for-4-Rotary-Table/T10053 :proj: Best Stan |
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