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Gonna Do's.........
Stilldrillin:
Hi Andy.
I just couldn't be without my mini dro. It's one of those widgets which you make as a novelty...... Then realise it's true worth! :thumbup:
Just had another 10 mins making random swarf. It's a much better feed arrangement than the two modes which I've used over the last 8 years! :bang:
I've now removed the 80t drive gear........ :)
Hi Mike.
Hovis accent? Hmmm....... :bugeye:
I'm a little further south, than De Dar Land........ :lol:
Happy memories of Tony Capstick. Now, no longer with us...... :(
Right then. On with the next one.....
Back in springtime, someone mentioned, using a plastic spacer to position taper roller bearings, was not right.........
Makes sense! :thumbup:
So, a swift text, to the long suffering Dave, who still works where I used to...... And 24 hrs later, a nice sized piece of EN something, roughed out bar, arrived.
Thanks Mate! Yer a gem..... :wave:
Topped it to same dia as the inner race.
Then reduced the rest of the dia to clear the 32 tooth, oversize belt pulley.......
Bored, to give a nice sliding fit on spindle........
Then sawed off.........
Set up as true as..... And faced to finish oal.
Keyway clearance.......
Looks a little better, I think.......
Just, enough room for the belt.......
A definite improvement.
When setting up the bearing preload. I wind in the locknuts, until any bearing movement has gone. (Checking with 5/8" bar held in chuck jaws),
I then lock the two nuts against each other. Which usually gives a little clearance.
If there's no movement. I assume the adjustment to be too tight, (whether it is, or not)......
Slacken back, using only the inner nut. Until movement is felt.
Then tighten, as little as possible at a time, using only the outer (l/h) nut.
I find, on a cold m/c, when set correctly. There is some spindle bearing drag, when hand rotated, in the neutral position.
But, after a few seconds of motor rotation, the spindle will rotate freely, by hand. With no bearing movement, even when warm. (It never gets hot)......
The offcut? :scratch:
That was made into another spacer, and sent up to Scotland...... :)
David D
stirling lad:
and its working a treat up here,,thanks David your a star...and chatter is almost eliminated now.
I honestly did'nt think it would make much difference but it really has, any chatter i get is coming from other,
not so well fitting parts..but with the help and advice i get from your good self, they parts will be fixed too :thumbup:
thanks mate..
...mike...
Stilldrillin:
--- Quote from: stirling lad on September 16, 2012, 10:37:45 AM ---and its working a treat up here,,
...mike...
--- End quote ---
TWO components. Separated by miles an miles. Both working well!! :bugeye:
I must be improving, at last....... :)
David D
stirling lad:
Can i back track a little and ask what the brass bit is on the lefthand side of the plummer block on your lead screw mod?(second photo) as mine just has a fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block to the nut on the r/h side ..:scratch:
..Mike..
Stilldrillin:
Hi Mike.
That was my first mod! :smart:
I seem to remember, the leadscrew was machined short, between it's thrust face, and the location of the 80t drive gear. :bang:
So, I faced up the very rough machined, end of the leadscrew, and added a brass thrust/ spacer washer. Moving the leadscrew some 3mm to the left........ :thumbup:
"fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block"...... As in, studding? :scratch:
David D
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