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| Super severn help! |
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| Jonny:
Sorry cant really help its been 20 yrs since mine was original. Look on the bright side Lyn at least you havent got to work out and rewire the motor Forward/Stop/Reverse. Had to do it twice plus change the motor to something more usable. Just sit down and work out with multimeter what wire does what. Another way if only to relegate one wire is to line up over the grommet, see if any wires are shorter, longer or even bent. Might be back later, just remembered seen my wiring diagram some where in last 3 weeks. |
| Fergus OMore:
Not being very comuter savvy( and who is at 82 years) I simply Googled 'Myford Super 7 Manual' and went straight into Metal WebNews and out came the manual as a pdf. There is a lot of possible changes as the S7 is quite an old machine. I was being a trifle cautious but you could, at a push, use your wiring diagram for the 920. Mine is one of these 3 phase Eurotherm affairs from single phase 240. Might I add a daft comment or three? If you do reverse the Myford, there is a chance that chucks and face plates might or will unscrew- and the whole thing comes adrift. N |
| kayz1:
Thanks guys, i sat down in the shed this afternoon with a nice cup of French coffee and a wedge of chokky cake :drool: and worked it out:::sort of. I found the chopped off cables and looked at each one and checked against the bits left in 1 the motor 2 the terminal at the rear..Lathe is not yet on the stand it is still sitting on the bike table with long leads to the terminal block, plugged it in closed my eyes and switched on,,,,,No :zap: so i hit the forward leaver and it ran forward, changed to rev and it went backwards :thumbup: I thought at that stage to stop and write it all down ready for the big lift tomorrow with the Lad...Many thanks for pushing me to do it... Lyn. PS: 38 years working on 50v stuff i thought i better have a go. |
| loply:
Ah the unparalleled convenience of chopping wires off with a bit left at each end so they can be matched back up again later. Chopped a potentiometer off the control board on my mill a while ago and forgot that lesson... How many combinations of three wires can there be? Let me tell you, enough to try my limited patience. |
| Pete W.:
Hi there, Lyn, Just a few comments about putting your Super Seven on its stand. Please forgive me if any of the following is 'teaching granny how to suck eggs'! (Is there not a smiley for that?) First of all, if you are mounting the lathe on raising blocks, get some well-coordinated help lifting it. The ML7 or Super 7 is very unbalanced and, if lifted by the apparently obvious lifting points, tries hard to tip over, motor down. I managed to bend the upstanding bolts on my raising blocks when demounting and/or remounting my ML7. Fortunately replacements were available as spares from Myford. My lathe is mounted against the workshop wall, I didn't have room for an 'island' position. This means that it's jolly difficult to fit the motor after the lathe is on its stand - it can be done but it's a fiddle. Similarly, it's difficult to wire up the motor reaching over the lathe bed, headstock & pulleys etc., far better to connect the cables to the motor while it's accessible and then connect the other end of the bunch of cables (I enclosed mine in robust plastic flexible conduit) to the control box at the front of the stand once the lathe is in position. In the workshop I had some years ago, the lathe was so positioned that, looking back up the mandrel bore, I saw the workshop wall. If I had ever wanted to turn anything long, I would have drilled a hole on the wall and supported the back end of the job outside in the garden! In my present workshop, that line of sight sees the double glazed window - I'm not going to try drilling any holes in that!! :bang: Most of the above won't apply if your lathe has an 'island' position. Best regards, Pete W. |
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