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| PeterE Tries to Build a Trojan ... |
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| PeterE:
OK, having seen so many nice engines I got inspired to start working on the one I have had in my project box for about 10 years :bugeye: I wanted to try to build a steam engine and got the advice that this type is suitable for starters. I therefore got myself a set of Trojan Mk 1 castings. Since then I have understood that the Trojan was updated to a Mk 2 version as I found the J P Bertinat build instructions on the web some years ago. The same instructions I now use for the build. It says to start out with the cylinder which I promptly did ... Here it is with smooth and parallell flanges as well a a nice bore. Even the valve face got a clean-up at the same time as I needed a surface to measure from. The casting is bronze and very nice to work with. Having come this far I saw that it is time to make the flanges round and smooth which I thought is best done in the mill. I therefore made a small "tower" to act as rotation centerfor that work. A simple piece of steel that will be mounted on the milling table. I also made sure I have a washer as bottom "bearing" and a thicker washer to hold the complete package together. When all fitted this is how it will look. This setup I think will work. I aim to use a welding pliers to hold the cylinder while taking small cuts to avoid too much risk of the whole thing flipping round. I might also rig a small stop to avoid the cylinder to snap the mill if it runs away. Please note, progress will be slow but I hope steady. BR /Peter |
| saw:
Looks good, I will be folling your'e progress :D :D |
| krv3000:
looking good so far |
| PeterE:
Thanks benni and krv. Set it up on the mill this afternoon and fixed the flanges. The thought-out way of doing it worked very well. I was able to feel a clear drag from the mill during climb milling so small cuts and slow work seems to be the way. You can also see the cobbled up stop block to prevent the thing to snap the mill if I lost control. That also worked good and the pip left was easy to blend out with a small file. This way I get perfect centering of the flanges on the cylinder core. The milling threw up some burr, but nothing that was difficult to correct. Bronze is sweet to machine. At this stage the description says that I shall mount the cylinder on an angle plate fixed to the lathe face plate as this is the common way to do it. I donīt have one of those yet so here will be the first detour in the making of the machine ... BR /Peter |
| PeterE:
Detour done! :D Dug up an oldish angle plate casting I had. Came from College Engineering Supplies if I remeber correctly. I thought of using a piece of my large T-bar but settled for the cast iron one. I made it 90 mm long, 50 mm high, and 40 mm deep to suit the C3 face plate. Here it is cut to size and flattened using the mill. What size for the slots? The face plate ones are 12 mm wide which I think are too much on such a small plate so I settled for 8 mm like the T-slot width on the mill. That seemed more appropriate. Good enough for me and it got some paint as well. To finish this off I also made some round T-nuts to suit the plate out of a brass bar from the scrap bin and here we see all the bits. The cylinder to the right. Yes, I did skim the face plate because it was very rough as delivered and I could not resist to fill in the circles with the shop colour ... So all put together and the cylinder fixed so that it is perpendicular to the plate which would make the port face at right angle to the cylinder ends. Perhaps some small counter-weight as well to make machining less jumpy. Well, so far so good. Now back on the steam track again, but we will see for how long ... BR /Peter |
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