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| C3 Upgrade and improvement - I hope |
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| PeterE:
Thank you David D! Yes, it feels so much better working with it now. Had to thin down a piece of aluminium today and the shape of the piece resulted in interrupted cuts. I heard it and felt a very small vibration but could not hear any rattling or the like anymore :D so I must have done something right. The whole job was fun and gave me more knowledge about the machine as well as making me more confident in doing it. Lots of bonuses yes :ddb: Anyway, there are still things to finish before I am ready with this upgrade so work continues ... BR /Peter |
| andyf:
That looks smashing, Peter. I'm sure you will find the handwheel a boon. The one fitted to my somewhat different lathe gets a lot of use when I can't face switching between changewheels set up for fine feed to turn something down to size and then a set-up for screwcutting. It's much quicker to do the plain turning by hand without the gear on the leadscrew, and then put that gear back on to cut the thread. You'll have fun with the dial; with a 16tpi leadscrew, one full turn of the handle = 62.5 thou carriage movement. My machine is worse: 12tpi, so 83.33 thou. I did make an 84 division dial, but eventually made one with 100 divisions and put it on a separate shaft along with a 48T gear, driven by a 40T behind the handwheel, so one full turn of the dial = 100 thou movement. It works well, now I have got used to the dial going contrariwise. Andy |
| Stilldrillin:
To all mini lathe owners........ Check the 'orrible little grub screw, which holds the feed handle in place! :poke: Mine now has a proper, secure, allen grub screw..... After the handle came loose. Sending the tool into the chuck jaws, at top revs! :bugeye: :bugeye: Enough excitement for one day....... :doh: David D |
| PeterE:
Thanks Andy, the lead screw handwheel has already passed the test with flying colours even though I am still not used to winding it "the wrong way" compared with the MJ-189 (which has a left-hand lead-screw thread). As you say, plain turning using the lead screw hand-wheel is quicker and more sensisitve than using the saddle hand-wheel. My lead screw seems to be 1.5 mm pitch from a quick measurement so I will take it from there and see where I get. I guess all three scale rings will be different in the end. @David D; Ouch, that must have been a scary moment :bugeye: I made sure that all my handle securing screws are proper allen grub screws with a hollow tip, not flat or pointy, but as said, it is worth a check now and then to avoid possibly costly mishaps. BR /Peter |
| andyf:
Hi Peter, Ah, I hadn't realised yours had a metric leadscrew. A 16 tpi one would be nearly 17mm per turn. But if winding your handle clockwise sends the saddle with its clasp nut away from the handle towards the headstock, the thread is LH, like those on your cross slide and topslide. I think your MJ 189 (that's a Taiwanese Unimat clone, isn't it?) must have had an RH leadscrew. There's a nice treatise on engraving dials here: http://www.neme-s.org/images/PDF_Files/Making_Graduated_Collars1.pdf The method of engraving the marks by plunging in with the tool and then dragging it out over the edge worked well for me, but I think a lathe with more robust spindle bearings and chuck would stand up better to his way of stamping numbers. Andy |
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