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| Potty Simpson build - MZT |
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| AdeV:
Marcello - you must have the patience of a saint, I would have been looking for a mechanical method of cutting after a few minutes.... in fact, I bought a mechanical hacksaw for that exact reason! You were right not to add oil, Cast Iron should be cut dry, the graphite (carbon) in it "lubricates" the cut. If you do add oil, you just end up with a sticky mess everywhere. |
| mzt:
David, I had concerns about wandering cuts: they would have meant more material to remove. Rather take it calm, think, look and (why not?) enjoy the task, however little appealing it might appear. There may be (that's not guaranteed!) satisfaction awaiting at the end of it. :bang: :thumbup: Stew, a quick look at the drawings confirmed there shoud be enough meat leaft to make the chest. Btw, (not that it matters so much, any reasonable size would do I guess) the total thickness of the valve chest appears to be missing from Sht 4: that would be 15mm + the height of the 14mm dia. flange on the right. For sake of completeness, if You go editing that page, the thickness of the cylinder cover is missing, too. Ade, does it not take patience looking at the mechanical hacksaw :drool: while it's doing the work for You? Or do You let it work unwatched? :poke: (spoken with more than a bit of envy, tho) As for the oil, I suspected what You confirmed. Had a few bottles of machine cutting fluid (of the type You mix with water) ready for use (already mixed) upstairs: that might have helped, but probably one should either use a lot of it or none. And I've got only enough to fill the tank once, the day I will put a working pump into my mill cooling system. Gotta get around that, too. Possibly, before boring this cylinder. Boh! We'll see. Marcello |
| sbwhart:
--- Quote ---Stew, a quick look at the drawings confirmed there shoud be enough meat leaft to make the chest. Btw, (not that it matters so much, any reasonable size would do I guess) the total thickness of the valve chest appears to be missing from Sht 4: that would be 15mm + the height of the 14mm dia. flange on the right. For sake of completeness, if You go editing that page, the thickness of the cylinder cover is missing, too. --- End quote --- Thanks Marcello I've put them right it's 15+3=18 and for the covers its 3mm or 1/8" Stew |
| mzt:
Thank You for the dimensions, Stew. I've a question for You, out of curiosity, regarding how You bored the cylinder as explained here: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=6485.msg71075#msg71075 If I got it correctly, You bored the cyl. to full depht, moved X 1mm and again to full depth, repeating the operations till You reached bore full size. Correct? Did You do that by hand, or do You have automatic feed on the quill of Your mill? Reason I ask that is I can't see myself doing so turning the little knob on my BF-20, where I can get all but constant feed. Will think about a larger knob, maybe with an handle: the lathe may lend one for a while. I suppose I will try chucking a large (and long) mill while I'm still on the roughing cuts, to cut the sides full depht in a single one passage. That would require flooding the cut, tho. Now I think of it, a battery screwdriver on the quill knob could do, too: that would be interesting. I've a lot to experiment. Marcello |
| sbwhart:
Thats what i did Marcello but I lowered the whole head not the quill (with the little wheel) that was left locked. Stew |
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