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Restoring Paramo No 6 Vise

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loply:

--- Quote from: John Hill on May 22, 2012, 05:48:11 AM ---You might find that if you lift the slide by putting a plate under it you will be easily able to lift the nut at the same time.  The last vise I looked in the nut had a lug that engaged with a hole in the base casting, obviously it would be just as happy engaging with a hole in your raising plate.

Cheers

--- End quote ---

The 'nut' appears to be part of the casting which has been drilled and tapped somehow.

AdeV:
I don't think the top surface is supposed to be any kind of reference surface. I've never owned a vice where it's a tight fit through the  base with the top surface doing any work; it's always been the bottom surface that takes the weight.

This sort of vice isn't a precision instrument, it's just a general purpose workholding machine I suspect if you took a minimum skim off the top just to tidy it up, that'd be plenty good enough, I wouldn't bother shimming or otherwise attempting to turn it into a precision tool.

75Plus:
Here is a link to "everything you need to know about bench vises" on another forum. It runs 11 pages and has lots of good information.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62716

Joe

loply:
Both vice jaws had one screw sheared off and the other seized solid.

I got the jaws off by slipping a hacksaw blade behind them and sawing the remaining screws off.

I then had to redrill and retap the holes. I wanted to maintain the same spacing so that aftermarket jaws could be bought if desired, and the original ones reused in the meantime. This meant enlarging the holes from whatever they were (around 8mm) to M10.

Some rather creative workholding was required.



 By my reckoning that mill block must be around 70kg (!) and nearly killed me getting it on the table without breaking anything. Probably not good for the mill really but needs must. I bought it with intentions of chopping it up into various smaller blocks!

End result was that, with some careful and slow drilling I managed to keep the drill on center and remove the remaining screw bits. I've usually struggled drilling out sheared screws, I find the bit wanders and you end up with oval holes, but I managed this time. I applied the quill lock partially for extra rigidity, and used the biggest permissible center drill to it's full depth.



Next step is to machine the jaws back to true and then some paint and we're done!

loply:
Hi folks,

Finished with the vise. Sanded / sandblasted / body fillered the thing, got it all painted in Hammerite Hammered Blue, which just came out metallic rather than hammered :hammer: and now it's good to go.




That's a full size screw driver by the way - the jaws are open about 9 inches.

I had to skim the face of the (hardened!) jaws with a carbide face mill as they were badly convex, Also had to make some custom slotted screws as normal M10 countersunk screws were too big for the jaw countersunk area, which I couldn't enlarge as it was too hard.



And that's it! Will keep it for a few weeks and see if it's so big it gets in the way or not!

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