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| Building a 3D Printer, RepRap Mendel Prusa2 by craynerd |
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| AdeV:
--- Quote from: DMIOM on June 17, 2012, 04:04:57 AM ---(off-topic : Ade - have you managed to get the wicks out of all that 100kg of candles you bought yet? :coffee: ). --- End quote --- LOL - No wicks Dave, I don't know what the wax actually comes out of (or why there's quite as much available as there is), but there's no wicks in it :ddb: |
| raynerd:
Hi Matt No, it is a PITA!!! There are no clear instructions for the iteration 2 and the thing is, there are so many different parts that the instructions would change so frequently! The thing is, that when you look at the i2 Prusa, it says a positive as better documentation!!! Unfortunately, I too struggled like hell to make sense of all the parts I had whilest looking at the manuals for the original Prusa. I`m very confident that I`ve put mine together as I should have so best thing you can do, is download: http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/2011/03/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ ...and use the photos on here and the web to see the slight changes. Notice things like the threaded rod for the cross braces under the bed are held at the TOP of the bar clamps rather than dangling from the bottom... small little things like that!! The biggest changes are the bed. I presume you`ll be going for a heatbed right (at only £13 extra, you would be crazy not to as it is a PITA without, and instead using blue masking tape and trying to rip your parts off!), basically you just mount the heatbed pcb on 4 screws on the ply or MDF bed. Regarding material. I used 6mm ply and it has warped due to the heat of the heatbed. However, if you use thicker, your increasing the weight. These things move at quite a fast rate (and still take ages to print!!) and the bed has to be pretty light or it`ll struggle. I`ve seen someone try 3mm aluminium sheet and quickly changed it because it was too heavy. People seem to be having luck with some sort of perspex... I`ve forgot the name, it isn`t very expensive but it looks nice, is fairly light, rigid and doesn`t warp with the temp of the heatbed (60-100 deg C about 6-10mm above the bed) . I`ll try and find you the name of that material as I`m going to pull my machine apart in the next weeks and make a few changes - replacing the ply for this will be one of them. Good luck with it. --- Quote from: matnewsholme on June 17, 2012, 11:20:08 AM ---Chris couple of questions. Did you manage to find a set of build instructions specific to prusa iteration 2?. Every set I can find show two plates for y axis whereas iteration 2 and yours only use upper plate and mount belts to lower side of it. Also what thickness did you use for this plate? I'm thinking 9mm MDF but maybe 12mm would be better?. Cheers Matt --- End quote --- |
| HS93:
was it Lexan they are using for the bed, can you still get Paxolin in thick sheets ? or how about stick on reflective foilon top of the ply as used in engine bays then put the heat pad on? the tape can be got in wide rolls and can be polished down flat. or how about carbon fiber sheet I use to buy it in bigish sheets for model car chassies that was very flat and should take that kind of heat. Peter |
| NickG:
Hi Chris, Just found this - not normally my cup of tea, have always been intrigued how they work but strangely never bothered looking before ... it's amazing, as is the quality of the parts you're getting off - can't quite believe it!! I guess they're actually quite strong due to the way they're layered up? I haven't read all of the text yet so apologies if it's all explained but how do you programme it? Some sort of 3D CAD format? Well done, you must be well chuffed with it! Nick |
| russ57:
ron thompson http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/Prusa_Mendel1/ has built his own filament extruder... |
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