Building a 3D Printer, RepRap Mendel Prusa2 by craynerd

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ChrisC:
Looking good Chris. I've found Marlin firmware to be ok, I haven't used Sprinter for a while, perhaps I should check it out again. Chris

raynerd:
Cheers guys, it has turned out pretty well.

Phil, as you can imagine, you have to calibrate all your axis, so when you tell it to move 100mm it actually moves such! That is easy with the x,y and z because you physically measure the distance moved but with the E axis (the extruder), it is very tricky to measure the amount of filament being pulled through and other factors such as the size of the extruder can effect it....it isn`t an exact science. Lots of the guides tell you to simply extrude 30mm and measure if 30mm has actually come out and adjust from there. However, I just couldn`t get it right. Then someone told me to print a solid layer and enter the g-code M92 E720, this sets the E step value to whatever you like, on the fly - in this case, 720. When your doing a solid layer, you can then check the layer is solid and adjust the E value until it is solid, 100%. That being said, best way is to get it to 95% and then take it up to 100% so that you know your not above (anything over 100% would also look solid!!)

Chris

John Rudd:

--- Quote from: Swarfing on May 31, 2012, 07:13:40 PM ---Grand job Chris, might get you to make one for me if your bored :)

--- End quote ---

Chris, looks pretty neat, custom made enclosure for your Pi....Are you taking orders for plastic extruded cases? :D ( only kiddin' )

Seriously, that's some great kit you've built...( where's the jealousy icon? ) well done... :bow:

philf:

--- Quote from: craynerd on June 02, 2012, 03:23:47 AM ---Phil, as you can imagine, you have to calibrate all your axis, so when you tell it to move 100mm it actually moves such! That is easy with the x,y and z because you physically measure the distance moved but with the E axis (the extruder), it is very tricky to measure the amount of filament being pulled through and other factors such as the size of the extruder can effect it....it isn`t an exact science. Lots of the guides tell you to simply extrude 30mm and measure if 30mm has actually come out and adjust from there. However, I just couldn`t get it right. Then someone told me to print a solid layer and enter the g-code M92 E720, this sets the E step value to whatever you like, on the fly - in this case, 720. When your doing a solid layer, you can then check the layer is solid and adjust the E value until it is solid, 100%. That being said, best way is to get it to 95% and then take it up to 100% so that you know your not above (anything over 100% would also look solid!!)

Chris

--- End quote ---

Thanks Chris. Now I understand :thumbup:

I guess that Marlin & Sprinter are firmware versions.

The Raspberry case looks superb. :drool:

How much did you spend building it?

If only they could print in metal.............

:beer:

Phil.

Raggle:
"Incredible" is a word that is driving me mad when used by politicians, movie reviewers and far too often.

However, your Raspberry Pi cover is truly incredible. Produced as it was by a machine that didn't even exist a month ago.

Even Yoda a part found to play, misshapen troll he was. Proud of yourself you should be, young Jedi! The force is with you.

Ray

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