| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Cutting down the noise. HELP!!! |
| << < (3/3) |
| BillTodd:
--- Quote ---As I said before, experiment by standing your machines, without bolting them down, on layers or old carpet or on rubber car mats to see it that helps, before spending real money. --- End quote --- All good advise :thumbup: but, if you try to float a light machine it will need soft rubber to work well, so it'll be wobbly . if you bolt the light machine to something heavy, the pair can be 'floated' on stiffer material which does not wobble as much. You'll also be pleasantly surprised when the machine performs better as a result :) |
| Lew_Merrick_PE:
Russell, 1) Make reasonably stout, hollow bases for your machines. Fill the hollow with sand. I use fairly large diameter screws through the sides of my base to fill/empty the sand. Mount the base on a pair of short (3 in/75 mm) I-beams (S flange). Get some 2 inch (50 mm) fire hose the length of the I-beams. Bond a tire valve stem in place as far in from the end as you can reach. Seal the ends (good contact cement) and fold them over such that the "folds" stick out a bit from the ends of the I-beam. Drill a hole through the I-Beam flange for the tire valve. Bond the hose to the underside of the I-beam. With everything assembled, inflate the hose sufficient to lift the base (with tool installed) about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The mass of the unit should keep everything from "walking" while the air reduces the transmission of vibrations. 2) Hang several layers of indoor/outdoor carpet an inch or so from the walls with an inch or so of spacing between each layer. I also did the same thing above & below my installation using "stretchers," but I did this when I had my lathe, milling machine, bandsaw, and grinders set-up in a dorm room in college (back in the dark ages). I was in a 3rd floor dorm room and could run my machines at 4 AM without my neighbors complaining. The standard I-3 X 5.7 lb/ft S-flange I-beam is 2.375 inches wide on the flange. At current prices, new beam would run (US) about $6/ft. It should be available from stock at any steel "service center" distributor. |
| hopefuldave:
[quote Lew_Merrick 1) Make reasonably stout, hollow bases for your machines. Fill the hollow with sand. I use fairly large diameter screws through the sides of my base to fill/empty the sand. Mount the base on a pair of short (3 in/75 mm) I-beams (S flange). Get some 2 inch (50 mm) fire hose the length of the I-beams. Bond a tire valve stem in place as far in from the end as you can reach. Seal the ends (good contact cement) and fold them over such that the "folds" stick out a bit from the ends of the I-beam. Drill a hole through the I-Beam flange for the tire valve. Bond the hose to the underside of the I-beam. With everything assembled, inflate the hose sufficient to lift the base (with tool installed) about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The mass of the unit should keep everything from "walking" while the air reduces the transmission of vibrations. [/quote] I've seen similar setups using (what looked like) tyre inner tubes between doubled 3/4" ply boards - the boards had 2x4 timber "walls" with 4" of concrete poured in. This was in a recording studio drum booth, drums sat on a nice reflective surface (the concrete/ply sandwich) so their racket sounded right, but the "thump" from the bass drum etc. didn't transmit to the floor structure - seemed to work well, the difference in low frequency noise between in and out of the booth was (wild-assed-guess) 60dB or so (in real numbers, about a millionth!) - the booth walls were *heavy* though, window was three layers of 1" glass separated 6" or more, inner and outer separately attached to inner and outer 8" concrete block walls, middle layer of glass "floated" in a steel frame with rubber mounts to the inner wall - sound engineers sometimes have to do a lot of work for isolation! I reckon something similar but a bit simpler would work for machine noise, like Lew suggests, if filled with concrete instead of sand you'd find it easier to bolt the machines down? In the world of noise isolation, there's no substitute for mass! Dave H. (the other one) |
| Russell Nash:
Update The wall seemed to be my biggest problem. I had originally wanted to have my machines against the wall, so I could have pegboard behind the machines. Looking at my cabinets, I realized I could set them up with a few drawers under the machines. I decided to create a machine and heavy hand tool island. All of my machines will be there along with my power tools. I'll also do my heavy work like hammering on the island. I bought machine feet for the five cabinets I wanted to use, and raised the tops to over a meter (approx. 43") with steel cabinet legs from Ikea. I followed some more of your advice by trying to make the whole thing as heavy as possible. All of the cabinets are bolted together, and I have some paving stones lined up to put inside the cabinets if I need more weight. I will hopefully finish attaching the counter tops today and can start bolting down the machines after that. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Previous page |