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| mzt:
Alex, there's something going definitely wrong with them inserts, aint the one to tell You exactly what it is, but You're breaking more than I do. some points to check: - eventual play in the spindle, slides, carriage. - inserts 'target' material: i.e. inserts purposely made to cut aluminium won't last long on a steel workpiece, those made for c.i. won't do a good job either. - tool edge height: might be slightly below the wp. axis but never above. - tool holder: some inserts are made to be used on flat toolholders, others require to be used on toolholders with negative rake. - speed & feed: they're designed to increase production in shops, hence to be used at higher speeds than HSS. - intermittent cuts should be avoided, unless comparatively light. - depth of cut: no less than the point radius, otherwise they will intermittently 'refuse' to cut the wp. and then cut too deep, mangling the finish. - tool holder quality & material: the lesser, the lesser overhang from the turret. - coolant: constant; either flood, mist or none. An occasional squirt from the bottle does no good. Marcello |
| mzt:
that material 'silver steel' maybe fairly hard. Try cutting the reduced diameter of the shank in steps: i.e. say, a 6mm rod to be reduced to 3 for a lenght of 20. Chuck in a 10/12mm rod for the required lenght (unless You can use collets). reduce to 3.01 for 5mm. next 5 next 5 next 5 same as above for the 6mm portion. file to size. part off. Marcello |
| ParCan:
Hi mzetati Thanks for your ideas and comments. These tips have a 1mm radius on the corners. I have no idea what the tips are designed for but they cut Mild steel very nicely. I think my machine is setup quite well, what others think may however vary. There is no perceptable movement anywhere. I do most of my work with Brass and get a very nice finnish using tips dedigned for a Boring bar. The top is totally flat. The Tips I used for the Silver Steel (also known as drill rod) have a very steep cutting angle on them, maybe to steep. Cuts were around 0.2mm with a bottle of coolant dribling over the work / tool constantly. There is no way that I could have gone from 6mm to 4mm in 1 cut, certainly with my setup. I'll have a think and see what I can do to improve things. Alex. |
| mzt:
Alex, those 1mm radiused inserts should be heavy duty, no way they should break when feeded .2mm. Maybe they're designed for mild materials, the very steep cutting angles bring to mind aluminium. Anyay, If You have the box, the complete insert code letters and numbers should give You all the information about the 'target' materials (though they're a real pain to decode). You will have to check the same brand catalog. Marcello -- another reason for insert breakages could be the toolholder area not being completely flat, a small burr or ridge would be enough. Some inserts require to be supported by an HSS plate: I have a few, together with the holder, but cannot recall having ever got around making any use of them. |
| ParCan:
A Box ? Code numbers ? You gota be Jokin. These were freebies in a lil plastic bag ! Alex. |
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