puddleduck engine build

[ParCan]

Hi All

I have had a Myford ML7 for a while now.
It makes fantastic 3D Printer parts for me but I wanted something more of a challenge.

I have decided to try and build a puddleduck engine as my first lathe project (Sinse school).
Ambitious ? definately, Foolhardy ? probaly.....

After my 1st error (I cut the base plate 4mm to short) I think everythign else is prety close.

I'm waiting on some Slitting saws to try and cut my 2" square brass bar rather than Turn/Mill it all to swarf.
Is this a good idea ?
All I have to do this on is the myford. Tips welcome.

Cylinder caps, base and block plate, Packing Gland screws, eccentrics (nylon) are all made.


I'm also waiting on some 3/4" brass round bar to arrive to make the Crank webbs and Packing Glands etc.

Updates when they happen...

Alex.

[ozzie46]

 That was the first engine I built. If I can do it you can too.
   Good luck and post lots of pics.


   Ron

[ParCan]

OMFG a slitting saw on a lathe is scary !

I put it away rather quick !

used a hacksaw instead.....

[Brass_Machine]

Yeah it is!

Don't think I would try it...

[DaveH]

a slitting saw on a lathe is scary !

I put it away rather quick !

used a hacksaw instead.....

Hi Alex
Good idea, and you lived to tell us about it 

One does need to be careful with slitting saws they are very easily broken  Broken bits do fly 

Good start, look forward to the journey - with the pics of course

 
DaveH

[mzt]

OMFG a slitting saw on a lathe is scary !

I put it away rather quick !

used a hacksaw instead.....

Alex,

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14631.0   

I'm waiting on some Slitting saws to try and cut my 2" square brass bar rather than Turn/Mill it all to swarf.

chain drilling before hacksawing may be an option. Second and third picture down.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=15270.msg187276#msg187276

As for the Paddleduck ...them drawings are not on my to do list.

They are on the table.

So, I will follow this thread with interest.

but,

 

Marcello

[ParCan]

After a few days off sick, i got back in my workshop yesterday.

I now have a Block, Pistons and packing Glands to add to the other bits.


The pistons still bind slightly and need a tiny bit more lapping.

[ParCan]

Just been reading the Build log done by Tim
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1525.200

I soooo need a mill. Would make life so much easier.

[boatmadman]

This was also my first proper engine build.

Doubting my ability to get success, I decided to build 2 hoping for 50% success rate. But, they both worked!

There is a build log on here somewhere.

Good work, keep it up.

Ian

[spuddevans]

Great start there Alex    You are doing really well without the use of a mill, Bog's designed it so that you can build it only on the lathe if a mill is not available.

That being said, having both machines (lathe and mill) is a real bonus and a real timesaver too. But you are showing us all that you can produce great results just by using what you have.

I'm looking forward to watching your progress,

Tim

[ParCan]

Got off work early and wondered down to the local engineering supplies for some of the blue marking out gunk.
They sold me a tin of "Stuarts micrometer engineers marking"

Have I got the right stuff ?

This seems rather reluctant to dry.
The stuff I used years ago I remember drying in a few mins......

And yes - I now have Blue Fingers !

[spuddevans]

I think that you have got some of the engineers blue, ink that never sets. What I use for marking out is just the biggest permanent black marker that I could lay my grubby hands on, works the best ever. I had 3 or 4 of them in my workshop laying around the place.

They may not be great for marking up large surfaces, but anything 6" square or less will "black" up just as quick and much easier. A lot easier to store too.


Tim

[ParCan]

2 Crossheads made today.

Oh boy was that a long and slow task, and 1 could end up in the scrap bin

I drilled the Piston rod hole 90 degrees out ( in the wrong side )
The part would be fine but the drill got pulled off line by the hole for the pin.

Repair attempted - we shall see.

Photo - ya gota be jokin - had enough for today and I still need to clear up.

[ParCan]

Got some more done today. (With Pictures)

Remade 1 packing gland.
Put the Cylinder caps on. They look good.
Made the Flywheel.
Assembled most of the top of the engine.
Put the Base plate on the Cylinder Block.

The slides still need lapping in a bit.
Pistons all move as they should without Binding on the glands.

I made the fly wheel over size then drilled and reamed the center hole.
To keep it concentric I have turned it to size on a bit of Rod turned to fit the hole.

It's still slightly wide. I will trim it to thickness another day.
Also I need to work out how I drill it.

Tomorrow I will tackle the Bearing Blocks.
Plan is to Drill and ream them all on 1 bar.
Drill the Mounting holes using the Milling Slide still on the Bar.
Part them off and turn them to thickness.

[ParCan]

I think that you have got some of the engineers blue, ink that never sets. What I use for marking out is just the biggest permanent black marker that I could lay my grubby hands on, works the best ever. I had 3 or 4 of them in my workshop laying around the place.

Hi Tim

Got a Big Balck sharpie today.
Works 100% Perfic.

Thanks for the tip.

Alex.

[grayone]

That blue stuff is for checking things like metal bearings and is not intended to dry - have made the same mistake

[mzt]

That blue stuff is for checking things like metal bearings and is not intended to dry - have made the same mistake

Engineers blue? Me too!

And when I got a big 500cc bottle of the proper one, the brushes usually got dipped too much or not enough.
When I upset that bottle on the table (drawings, trousers, chair..) I decided it was time for an homecrafted solution



No more brushes with too much or not enough ink, no more cleaning of them after use.
Still easy to upset, tho.

Marcello

[ParCan]

Cylinders assembled.
Still a bit sticky in places but nothing a bit of use will remove.
Pistons seal well

The washer is my tool for drilling the Cylinder caps and Packing glands.

1 10mm washer. Put in 3 jaw chuck.
With a Spirit level get 1 chuck jaw horisontal.
Scribe a mark on the washer with the lathe tool. Repeat 2 more times.
Mark a circle with dividers.

Drill 2.5 mm in 3 places

Crude but it worked for me.

Made the bearing blocks today.
Had to make em out of 3/4 square bar which is only 19mm. Close enough (I hope).

They were not hard to make.
Take bar. Mill to 15mm thick.
Put in a 4 jaw and center for the 5mm hole.
Drill 4.5 mm and ream to 5mm

Part off 2 at 10.5mm thick. Make a note of which way around they go.
Re drill / ream for the 2nd pair.
Part off the next 2 and repeat (I made 6)

Mill both sides to get to 10mm thick.

Drill the holes for the base plate and screw down as they came off the material.

Lapping was a breeze - took maybe 5 mins and the shaft spins freely.

Alex.

[ParCan]

Oh Bother !

I made the beraing Blocks upside down !
I can see there is no chance with getting away with that and whilst my bits are not the best - this is a learning thing for me, I'm not even going to attemt to turn em over.

I think what I'll do is once this one is complete and I have a Mill I'll make another one - and make it nice.
I am slowly but surely working out Cutting speeds. Things have been far to slow esp. on th eMilling side.
 
Alex.

[Brass_Machine]

...

I made the beraing Blocks upside down !
I can see there is no chance with getting away with that and whilst my bits are not the best - this is a learning thing for me, I'm not even going to attemt to turn em over.
...

I have done that! In fact, I did it on a team build for an engine. I didn't realize it until I sent out 10 of them to other people 

Still, you said you are learning right? Doing a pretty good job of building it.

Eric

[ParCan]

Hi All
Bit of an update. (sory no pics).
Yestarday I made the crank webs.
They are not easy, far from it.
I started 6,
1 parting off failure.
Got 5 completed.

Of the 5, 3 are perfic. 2 the Screw hole was off center.
All in all I think I have 4 usable, time will tell.

Assembled the crank and it turns quite freely in my origonal bearing blocks.
Maybe they will actually work so I Turned the Boss on those.

Today I made the pillars, the lengths are slightly wayward at the moment all to long.
I Bolted the crank and block together and the whole thing locked up solid.
A few washers and bits of shim and things are better on the crank but both Crossheads are very unhappy.
Lostened the Rods and made some improvements but they are still far from good enough.

Made the Con rods from 6.5mm (well a tad under) hex Brass, had real fun centering those to drill the holes.
I put a 6.5 mm drill in the Lathe chuck and raised the Milling vice until the jaws just touched.
Center drilled and then reamed to 4 mm.

Measuring 28.5 mm then became an issue.
I have a Metric Screw in the Cross feed.
14 1/4 turns /should/ give me 28.5 mm yes ?????
It was closer to 30 mm
I checked lash and that was fine. Barely any.
Tried again - measued it this time and 14 1/4 turns on my metric screw = 29.8 mm
Makes no sense whatsoever to me I have to say......

3rd attempt I got 2 Usable Con rods.

Went to make the Pins and destroyed all 3 points on a carbide insert.
Gave up for the day at that point......

There must be a trick with silver steel. I just have yet to find it.

Couple of Q's.

How do I line up the flywheel to drill the Screw hole?
How do I turn something accurately (such as the pillars) to length ?
What is the secret to turning silver Steel without chipping your carbide Inserts ?

I'll get some pictures for you tomorrow.

Alex.

[ParCan]

Silver Steel Q solved
Slow down and use Cutting oil

[mzt]

[1] How do I line up the flywheel to drill the Screw hole?
[2] How do I turn something accurately (such as the pillars) to length ?

1) Chuck in a pointed rod ot tool and place a ruler over the workpiece, bring them into contact and move the workpiece till the ruler is square to the tool.

2) I use a spindle backstop or a micrometer stop for the saddle, often together.

A word of caution about the item in the first picture: it must NOT be used when protruding from the back of the spindle more than a little: it would bend and hit You. That handy knurled wheel on the far end will increase the risk. Replacing that long threaded bar with a shorter one would be quick, easy and safer.





..and a word of caution about the second: running the carriage into the micrometer stop under power does no good to your lathe. Do not ask why...

Marcello

[ParCan]

Hi.

At long last some pictures ......

The engine turns but there are issues with the Con Rods and Cross Heads.
I may need to remake the Top Plate. the Con Rods i can dress dowm a little.

Started this am on the Spool valves.
I think the pictures tell their own story
It's been costly. 2 Totally destroyed Tips. 1 partially desrtoyed.
1 Broken M2.5 tap.
I started with 300 mm of 6mm rod, 50 or so mm left.
It's taken me all day to get 2 Spool Valves.

[spuddevans]

We all get days like that Alex, in my paddleduck build, in total I ended up making 4 spool valves (2 had far too much leakage in the bore of the valve)

I too had problems getting it to turn over smoothly, the best advice I can give you is to just take your time and work methodically through where it is sticking. On mine it was only slightly binding up, but it was binding up in quite a few places and so all that "slight binding up" added up

I ended up slimming the con-rods down using a bit of emery held on my surface plate, that along with fiddling with the crosshead bars after enlarging their mounting holes in the top plate, got me to the point where there was much less resistance. Then I left the fiddling until I had it ready to run on air and did any last fine-tuning while running it in.

Stick at it, it's coming together nicely. We're starting to see an engine appear 


Tim

[mzt]

Alex,

there's something going definitely wrong with them inserts, aint the one to tell You exactly what it is, but You're breaking more than I do.

some points to check:

- eventual play in the spindle, slides, carriage.
- inserts 'target' material: i.e. inserts purposely made to cut aluminium won't last long on a steel workpiece, those made for c.i. won't do a good job either.
- tool edge height: might be slightly below the wp. axis but never above.
- tool holder: some inserts are made to be used on flat toolholders, others require to be used on toolholders with negative rake.
- speed & feed: they're designed to increase production in shops, hence to be used at higher speeds than HSS.
- intermittent cuts should be avoided, unless comparatively light.
- depth of cut: no less than the point radius, otherwise they will intermittently 'refuse' to cut the wp. and then cut too deep, mangling the finish.
- tool holder quality & material: the lesser, the lesser overhang from the turret.
- coolant: constant; either flood, mist or none. An occasional squirt from the bottle does no good.

Marcello

[mzt]

that material 'silver steel' maybe fairly hard.
Try cutting the reduced diameter of the shank in steps: i.e.

say, a 6mm rod to be reduced to 3 for a lenght of 20.

Chuck in a 10/12mm rod for the required lenght (unless You can use collets).
reduce to 3.01 for 5mm.
next 5
next 5
next 5
same as above for the 6mm portion.
file to size.
part off.

Marcello

[ParCan]

Hi mzetati

Thanks for your ideas and comments.

These tips have a 1mm radius on the corners.
I have no idea what the tips are designed for but they cut Mild steel very nicely.

I think my machine is setup quite well, what others think may however vary. There is no perceptable movement anywhere.
 
I do most of my work with Brass and get a very nice finnish using tips dedigned for a Boring bar. The top is totally flat.

The Tips I used for the Silver Steel (also known as drill rod) have a very steep cutting angle on them, maybe to steep.
 
Cuts were around 0.2mm with a bottle of coolant dribling over the work / tool constantly.
There is no way that I could have gone from 6mm to 4mm in 1 cut, certainly with my setup.

I'll have a think and see what I can do to improve things.

Alex.

[mzt]

Alex,

those 1mm radiused inserts should be heavy duty, no way they should break when feeded .2mm.

Maybe they're designed for mild materials, the very steep cutting angles bring to mind aluminium. Anyay, If You have the box, the complete insert code letters and numbers should give You all the information about the 'target' materials (though they're a real pain to decode). You will have to check the same brand catalog.

Marcello

--
another reason for insert breakages could be the toolholder area not being completely flat, a small burr or ridge would be enough. Some inserts require to be supported by an HSS plate: I have a few, together with the holder, but cannot recall having ever got around making any use of them.

[ParCan]

A Box ?
Code numbers ?
You gota be Jokin.

These were freebies in a lil plastic bag !

Alex.

[raynerd]

Is it not running yet? 
lol 

[ParCan]

I'm definately getting better at this machining lark.
I decided to do the Valve Blocks in a 4 jaw.
It's paid dividends BIG time.

I centered the bar in the 4 jaw. Faced off an end and drilled it 1/8 for 35 mm the 5.5 for 36 mm
I have some slow spiral negative rake drills and they really do cut brass like butter.

Both holes were slightly out so I machined the 1st side to suite the Hole.
Turned it over and machined it to size - 18mm
The hole is now centeral. Did the 2nd using the same method.

Then hogged them both down equally to 16.5 mm. Measured the hole and pulled the hole central again.

Both blocks are within .05 mm, square, and the hole is within .02mm

I'll start drilling tomorrow......

Alex.

[ParCan]

Oh Bother said Pooh ( or something to that effect )

And I was doing so well.....

[mzt]

What's wrong with them?

Marcello

[ParCan]

The 1 on the Right is drilled at the wrong end

[mzt]

Now You tell me what and where, I can see it. Thank You.

Now what?
"Parts for future projects"  box and start over with a new piece, or some press fitting plugs into them holes & redrill ?  (admitting it would be possible)

Marcello

[ParCan]

I'll just make another 1

I'm planning a Foundary doofah thingy wotsit so I can remelt all my brass scrap.

[ParCan]

Not had quite as much time lately.

Things have moved on again.

valve blocks are ready to be reamed to 6 mm. just working out exactly how I go about that.
Trying to re centre the hole in the lathe is not going to be easy.
Drilling it on my cheepo wickes drill is garunteed to go wrong as well.
The lathe is the best bet, I'll drop it in a 4 jaw, I have a height gague, and center the hole.

The 1st valves are no good. I have tooling marks in them and the 4mm bit is a taper from 3.98 <--> 4.35 mm. That'll never seal.

2nd attempt at the valves is going much better. I'm using Mild steel this time.
Started with 8mm Rod and used a center to hold it steady.
Hogged off to 5 mm for the 4 mm dia bit then slowly to 4.05 mm.
Used a fine file to take it to 4 mm, then a Pollish with solvo.

The 6mm bits are hogged to 6.5 mm for now. I'll take the center bit out, do the drilling then turn the last bit to 6.0 mm and pollish with Solvo.

More pictures next time......

Alex.

[ParCan]

A good few hoiurs in the workshop later...

Steam Valves are complete and work. Just need to attach the Packing glands.
Remade another spool (that's the 7th started so I'm quite good at those now)
Made the M2.5 Studs from a welding rod.
Made the steam valve end plates.

The Piston block is now assembled and complete.

Made the eccentric straps (rather badly I have to say)  I'll have another go at those.
Remade the eccentrics in Ally - Nylon was just not going to work.......

Stripped the crank and put the oil holes in the bearing blocks.
Also did the cutout for the eccentric on the Base Plate.

I noticed some play in the chuck whilst cutting up my sash weight so ended up stripping down the Lathe Headstock.

The bearings are in very good condition all things considered. (It's an ML7 made in 1954)
A Bit of blue greasy gunk showed the top shell was lose but the bottom was sitting really nicely.
I re shimmed the blocks until there was a tiny bit of friction then added a fag paper.
There is no play and the spindle runs freely.
I'd also note that Oil Consuption has dropped dramatically .

I may get some more time to play tomorrow.

Alex.

[Brass_Machine]

Hi Alex...

Looks like you are making some good progress on the engine. One of these days I will get off my rump and make one. You get some good machining experience out of it.

Eric

[ParCan]

Got the Con rods remade today.
Put a small (0.25mm) boss on the Big end to help keep it all free and not rub on the crank webs.

The whole thing has been stripped, cleaned and lubed before Building it right up.
It all turns, but i'll leave that there. There are tight bits all over the place.

Pistons drop under their own weight. They are spot on.
Crossheads slide on their own, until you start linking them together with the Pistons and / or crank.
Crank on it's own is not bad, 1 Bearing Block is a tiny bit to far out but I really should remake those anyway as they are upside down.

I think I have a hole or 2 off square in the Crank Webs.

Crosshead rods are (were) ~ 1mm out. Holes filed to make them work. I really should remake the Top Plate.

All In all I'm not unhappy with what I have made and have had hours of fun already.
The reality is coming to me that this engine may or may not actually work !
There are simply to many errors duing my learning process.

My plan is to complete this engine and see if I can make it go, then use the experience I have gained to build a second.
I also intend to invest in a Mill.

The Milling slide on the Myford works but everything takes forever to setup and machine.
I's also suseptable to moving if you try and take anything more than a 1mm deep cut.
Tighten it up more and it distorts the Cross slide.


 

[Brass_Machine]

...
...I have made and have had hours of fun already.
...

That is the most important part. Having fun!

Eric

[krv3000]

hi I'm imperst my next engine will be a twin so I'm watching your billed with grate interst

[DaveH]

Alex,

I have to say,  if you can mill on a lathe, then milling on a milling machine will be a "walk in the park" 

Your engine is looking good, nice work 
 
DaveH

[ParCan]

I jumped on the Bike and Nipped in to East London today to look at the mil; offerings from http://www.amadeal.co.uk.

The guy I spoke to was helpfull but is not an engineer in any way shape or form.
They as a company are in it to buy, sell, trade and do business. They trade in SEIG machines direct from China.
All in all they have a reasonable premisis with a reasonable amount of stock kicking around.

Looking at their XJ12-300, it's little more than a drill.
The AMA16 is small, compact and looks much sturdier.
The AMA25 is a lot more money but I think for anyone serious, not a bad (at the small end of the market) machine.

The AMA25 is to large for my workshop, so I bought an AMA16LV with a Vice and Collett set.
After a bit of haggling a deal was struck and it should turn up here on Tuesday.

We shall see how good the machine actually is.

Alex.

[andyf]

Hi Alex,

I think you'll do OK with Amadeal. I haven't bought anything expensive there, but those who have give Hugh (the owner) full marks for after sales service. I have met him; nice chap. As you say, he isn't an engineer (a retired pharmacist, IIRC), but his prices are pretty keen and much of his stock comes from Chinese manufacturers like Weiss who (it is said) have higher standards than the usual suspects. Not sure if he sells any Sieg products. 

Andy

[ParCan]

New goodies arrived today:
Silver Solder, Flux and a blow Lamp.
That should do to get me moving again on the engine. (I need to solder the rods to the eccentric straps)

And then more goodies arrived:
Fire cement, a Crucible and some Tongs for my Furnace to re melt my Srap Bass and turnings. (Dont tell my fair lady I plan to use here waste paper basket and a Flower Pot from the Garden)

Then a Really heavy wooden crate turned up. The Driver says "Got a Trolly or forklift ?"
We dragged it out of the van and dropped it on my front lawn before I pondered how I get it inside and up 2 flights of stairs.
Deciding to remove excess weight (the wooden crate) first a jemmy was fetched.
I now have some sheets of Ply wood AND some nails :0

The inside of the crate revealed it's wonders after about 5 mins, a small balck plastic box, 1 small wooden box and a cardboard box, oh and a lil AMA16LV Mill.

Attempting to move the de crated mill was again never going to happen on my own so i set about separating the Head from the Column and base.
A Bolt and a Nut later I carried the head in and placed it on my workbench.

Thinking the rest would now be easy was a mistake. I then had to separate the Column from the base.
the Tool box contained chocolate:
Alan keys.....

They were dropped swiftly in the "Small bits of steel" Box and decent alen keys made easy work of the 4 bolts.

The base was still bloody heavy I have to say.

As usual a complete strip and clean was required as it had a film of brown gunk on it.
A Litre of white spirit and some paper roll later I reassembled everything.
Also pulled all 3 screws apart to put propper lube on them and the thrust bearings.

Movement needs to bed in a bit, It's well lubed with some propper slideway oil.
There is a lil bit of Lash for me to try and iron out, nothing major.

The MT2 Collett set looks very reasonable.
The Tilt Swivel machine vice is, well, really nasty.
It's gona be a nightmare to square up and is far from "precision"

I'll see how it works when I get some metal in to it.

[Brass_Machine]

You got yourself a mill? How cool is that!

With what you have been gaining milling on the lathe... you will do well on the mill

Eric

[mzt]

Alex, that's good news! 

Looks like Your mill requires a three handed operator to change tools (as mine does): two hands on the wrenches, and a third one to prevent the tool from falling. (They do. Either they damage the workpiece or loose they cutting teeth. One sad end does not exclude the other. 1mm mills snap.)
My 'solution' came with the habit of lowering the head to about 1" from whatever surface and interposing a small foam cushion (a loose did for a long while) before opening the collet. When the tool falls, I get it with one hand and raise the head with the other.  The spindle lock pin is probably the only feature I miss from the mini, since I upgraded it.
A short piece of string going from the plastic spindle cover to the motor cover will prevent shop gremlins from stealing that cap, if not the wrenches.

Marcello

[ParCan]

TY mzetati for your tips.
I did wonder about the Cap - I'm sure it'll have the ability to hide in every possible nook it can find.

Tool changing on most small vertical mills is going to be hazerdous at best (either for the tool or work).
Some foamy tape stuff will be placed on the back of the Vice I think.

My first job will be making heaters for my 3D printer nozzles. That should give it something reasonable to munch on.

Good news is that my 24mm face cutter fits in the Colletts.
Cost me a £ at a car boot.

Alex

[ParCan]

Attempted to use the Mill today.

I managed to make the valve pivots but things are not good.

The Low Cost vice is prety much unusable
The machine is not square (by a long way)

I have ordered a better Vice
I have ordered a Traming gague doofah thing, I know i'll use it again and again so worth the money.
 
Spent the rest of today making Reprap parts and chips.

[HS93]

have you taken the vice of the swivel base , stiffens them up a lot , but you may have done that already.

Peter

[ParCan]

Hi Peter

The vice is a Tilt swivel Vice. It turns on the on the Milling platform and also in the vertical plane.
The issue is the vertical plane is far from square.

New Vice from RDG turned up today.
it was suitably stripped, cleaned and lubricated before I did anything more.

Made a basic tramming device out of the 8mm rod turned and Threaded M5 that I used for the puddleduck Flywheel and A bit of 15mm ally bar.

Drilled a hole in 1 end to suite the Dial gague then put in a locking screw.
Drilled a hole at 55 mm (to suite the width of the table) then at 120 mm (cos that's about the length of the ally) to do the table length.

Head in within .0005" in all directions with the bed. I bet i'll never ever get it that good again ;)

Made the Valve block out of some 1" X 3/8 flat Brass bar (ok it's a tiny bit small)
Decided to make it 24 mm X 24mm (drawings say 25 X 25mm). i'll make the tubes longer to suite.

It measures 24.04 X 23.98mm and it's square as well. Unbelievable.
I'd have never got even close to that accurate on the lathe.

* ParCan is a happy bunny

Alex.

[ParCan]

Remade the Eccentric straps toaday.
So So So much easier with a mill.

Tomorrow I learn (well for the 1st time in 25 + years) to Silver Silder.

I can then get the Standoff Flanges made and complete the Valve Block.

I'll note that I only have 1/8 Copper Tube but do have some 4mm Brass tube.
I'll prolly use the brass tube.

You never know, it may even see some Air this weekend

[PekkaNF]

Good progress there!

Which vice you got from RDG? Have you clockked part lift when the vice is tightened?

Pekka

[ParCan]

Hi All

Spent most of another weekend in the workshop...

The RDG Vice I bought does lift ~0.2mm. It's on my list of things to fix.
I plan to make 2 new clamp strips, machined so that they hold the jaws as the designer intended.
I /could/ machine the Vice itself but that seems like an awfull lot of work compared to making 2 new Gib Strips.

I have to say that it's far betterer than the 1st vice I got for amadeal.

Back to the engine....

Mk1 Control valve was to wayward so I have made another.
It's darn near perfic (unless you see it close up that is)
Made the leaver out of a failed con rod, then knocked the ball off I put on the end. Oh Well.

Eccentric straps are solderd and installed. I still need to clean some of the soldering residue off.
Spool valve packing glands are in and working reasonably freely.

I thought I had a bit of 1/2" steel bar to make the Steam Pipe Standoff flange doofahs from, no such luck
I have some on order. Should be here this week.


Almost there, but so far away ....


Alex

[ParCan]

Hi All

The RDG Tools 80 mm Milling Vice I bought,  "80MM Swivel Base Milling Vice" RDG Ref: 1209.

Whilst the castings and Jaws are well made, the failings are in the rest of the product.
I stripped it down and cleaned it, followed by a generous lube gave me a vice.

However - The jaw lift was just crazy. 0.2+ mm.
This made it almost impossible to clamp anything and keep it clamped square.

The issue was that the Gib Strips are far from what the designer intended. They were 10mm wide X 8mm thick.
This left most of the fixed jaw slide unsupported.

2 Strips of 5mm X 20 mm X 70 mm Mild Steel bar were cut.
Dropped em in the vice, milled both ends square then the edges to 16 mm wide.

6 mm from the edges I drilled 6.5 mm holes on 50mm centers to suite the casting holes M6 Bolts. (6.5 mm to give me a bit of adjustment)

I now have a vice with almost zero lift on the jaw. < 0.02mm)

I'll do some images when I take it all apart again.

Alex.

[PekkaNF]

THANK YOU! Just sort of information I was after. I have a relatively big russian made vice that has been ground all over and it is really nice. Got it almost 15 years ago on very nice price and got lucy with it's quality. However sometimes two identical smaller (lower) vices would be really nice to have and because of this "two" and "sometimes" I'm reluctant to buy quality/premium vice and at the same time need reasonable quality. I was hoping someone finds reasonable semifabricated product and has experice to produce method of fixing them to a usable form.

under 0,02 mm real word lift on cheap vice ir a really good accievement. Not allways sheer neccessity, but saves time and complications many times over.

Pekka

[ParCan]

The fix for the vice was Very easy.
I just put it back the way the designer intended in my opinion.
Alex.

[ParCan]

Mixed Bag today.

I made the stand off's and cut the tubes.
They all went reasonably well.

I decided not to thin them down as per the drawings.
I can understand that the pipes need to be as thin as possible but I want to get this one complete.

Soldering the pipes to the flanges was easy enough.

My Blow lamp is however not man enough to do the valve block

I'll nip over to a friend who has a BIG torch and do that tomorrow.
The same friend also has a compressor !

I'll take a video camera with me.

[ParCan]

Spent thismorning making the Oiler. Last bit done.

M8 with the blow lamp has no Gas (
I went to buy Gas and bought a Large blow lamp as well.
All soldering is complete, just need some Pickle which will make things easier to clean.

Tomorrow i'll see if it actually works !

[raynerd]

Good luck tomorrow. I`ve not said much on this thread but I have been watching. I hope it turns out OK for you!!

Chris

[ParCan]

Well, all i can say to myself is RTFM.
The reason that the stand offs are thinned down is not to keep the tube thin.
It's so the screw heads fit !

No cookies today, I will probably need to remake the entire valve assembly.

Alex.

[ParCan]

Workshop time is somewhat limited at the moment.

I have made a Cast Iron cylinder block now.
Learned one lesson. Std HSS milling cutters and Cast Iron don't mix.
Chipped all 4 teeth off a brand new 16mm end mill.
Only took a 0.5mm cut as well - You live and learn...

The Block has been made in the 4 Jaw on my lathe with an Insert type cutting tool.
Drilled it on the mill and is darn close to square.

Also checked my 3 Jaw chucks out.
The Standatd myford one is around .0010 Out on a 12 mm bit of silver steel. As it's a screw in type there is not a lot I can do with it.
The other 3 jaw was also out but is on a back plate.
Managed to get that to within .0001" on the same bit of Bar.

With luck I can now turn things on center again...

Alex.

[ParCan]

Hi Guys. I'm Back 

And I am rebuilding the Puddleduck I started and completed 2 years ago. (it never ran and never was going to run)

No Pictures yet, but progress has been good.

Base is remade out of a lump of 16mm thick ally. (just don't look to close)
Crankshaft Main's remade and this the holes all line up this time.
New cylinder block made. Just need to drill and tap the cylinder caps.
New pistons, rods and glands that are all concentric made.

I'll do some photo's shortly.

Alex.
Once the puddleduck is complete and running, I'll get around to painting and tidying up the Dads n Lads engine. 

[Scuba1]

Soooooo where are the pictures