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| MikeA:
Hello Net2Lar, Congratulations on your lathe - a real iconic workhorse that is well loved and used by many. Getting the taper attachment is all the the good as it is evidently the rarest of the accessories. You seem to have already made good headway with the cleanup - hard to believe it's the same taper attachment! One thing I'd suggest is you look into electrolytic rust removal - it's simple, inexpensive, safe, and you can't overdo it as it only removes the rust, not the good metal. Most of what you see as rust on your machine is superficial and once removed and a bit of 'elbow grease' applied, you'll be amazed at the difference. Insofar as where to go/what to do - I strongly suggest you document, document, and document again. It's easy to think "I'll remember how this goes back together." but six months later.................. :doh: A 'point & shoot' camera is your friend! It is impossible to have too many photos to help figure out how things fit. Take it slow and easy, ask for help/direction as necessary, and you'll end up with a machine to be proud of that will do real work! |
| Swarfing:
Definitely make note of the shims under the bearings if there are any? I rebuilt a 13" SB and because i missed this bit took an absolute age to get the spindle to run right. To clean mine up i just used caustic soda and wire brush, this removed all the paint as well. You do need to make sure you rinse and dry it properly straight afterwards. |
| nel2lar:
I want to thank each and every one that responded. All I was was info which many were gracious to give the advice I was looking for. I have taken a lot of pics and will post as I think it needs updating. The stand I built to hold the machine is welded and bolted to a concrete floor and block wall. I take some pics as I get back at it. The height is a little bit higher than I wanted but will work out fine. My legs have been giving me problems for years and standing is no longer an option. So I thought I would make a rolling box with a seat on top to park my butt. Using the box for tooling parts etc. Lot of good ideas so I'll be busy for a while. Again thanks to all I'll try to keep up to date. The lathe # and description is: South Bend 10K Serial #40371 K Catalog # CL670RD/428 Bed length 4 1/2 Hope that is what you were asking for. I will need to make a adapter to put a 3 and 4 jaw on it. It come with nothing but the pulley set up. The taper attachment is the harder one to remove or it could have been gone. :) :D :ddb: :) :D :ddb: :) :ddb: :) :ddb: Nelson Collar |
| nel2lar:
Paul I looked at your pics and nice machine. I uploaded a couple of pics with the numbers. Nelson Collar |
| pjf134:
Nelson, The pics of my lathe was when it was getting done. When I got mine nothing moved at all because of surface rust. The lathe was not used much as all gears were like new and not broken, except a handle for the cross slide. The oil dried up in the gear box from sitting and was stuck shut with the taper pins facing the wrong way to remove and that is why it took longer than anything else. I did look the serial number up and it comes up at 12/2/88 for being made and is a 10K. I will look a little deeper as I thought there should be more letters after the serial no. or someone added the taper attachment later. If you buy a chuck keep in mind that South Bend has a special fit for screw on chucks so no other ones will fit unless you alter it, I guess so you would buy from them. If you do buy the kit with a book read it twice before teardown unless you feel Lucky. Once you do one they become easy. Ask before tearing in to something, it be go a lot easier that way once you know what to do. Paul |
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