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| DT-100 Bucket Racer |
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| Kjelle:
Nice thing! But please, make those foot-pegs folding! For safety, and for looks. And knurl them, or get some foot-peg rubbers, so your feet don't slide off... Kjelle (it's too early to write a longer reply...) |
| jamoni:
Kjelle, The pegs are going to be MUCH shorter and stouter. They won't be folding, but if it ever gets to the point that they hit pavement, it will mean my boots are nowhere near them. So I'll have bigger fish to fry. :) |
| MadNick:
A good start and something a little different too. As for your press fit cant you glue it in with some bearing glue or similar? Nick |
| jamoni:
Nick, bearing glue? Are you messing with me? That sounds like "a box of grid squares" or "500 yards of flight line", or "muffler bearings". :) Anyway, I think I'm embarking on a major design change to reduce the bulk of these levers. I have a bunch of steel and a little AC welder. I think I'm going to weld up some simple lever/pedal assemblies. It would have a tubular part that goes around the peg bolt, a long 1/2" round armat a 90* to that, and then a 1/2" pedal at a 90* to the arm. The tubular part would be long enough to act as the foot peg, and would also stabilize the assembly, so I wouldn't need a bearing. Simple, clean, a little heavier but much stronger, and it'll look far more like race equipment. But.... the others are already done. :bang: |
| MadNick:
Personally I would stick with Ali - Its easier to work with than steel and looks so much nicer when polished up plus why start again, you are refining the design. And no im not messing with the Bearing Glue. A few years ago I restored a Yamaha RD350B and one of the rear wheel bearings was very loose in the hub. I was a bit dubious on the glue at first but the supplier said 'I wouldnt sell it to you if it wouldnt work' and she was right! I glued the bearing in and it was still there when I sold the bike a few years later. Nick |
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