Gallery, Projects and General > Oooops!
Stuck Collet Chuck Arbor
ukazak:
--- Quote from: Miner on March 09, 2012, 09:19:04 AM ---You could try tightening a rod into a collet, Tighten the other end into the mills vice and Use that to help pull on the collet chuck while tapping on the loosened drawbar. It might work? I REALLY hope that's not a R-8 taper and the taper spun in the spindle shearing off the internal set screw though. If so, You might never get it apart.
Pete
--- End quote ---
You mean a smaller draw bar from under side screw to the chucks arbor and pull up while is in mills vice and small taps to the losened draw bar at the top?
Now that I havent tried before... I will soak is WD40 overnight and try that first thing in the morning..
Taking to ındustrial park and using press.. I am sure will demage something else inside or outside?
Thanks
philf:
Is it possible to use the ER32 chuck nut to pull the chuck out?
To try you would probably need to machine a sleeve which would slide over the chuck and then a thick (say 6mm) split washer on top fitting between the sleeve and the end of the spindle.
The significant force generated wouldn't be seen by the bearings at all.
Cheers.
Phil.
Fergus OMore:
Obviously, you have something mis-aligned- and twisted.
As a follow up, stuck tapers are the normal for car and lorry suspension rod ends and the accessory firms have extractors. In fact, I have several- left from those days.
Much of the removal of tapers is by feel- which is almost impossible to describe in words. It all depends on just how much space that is available. I have used a pair of cold chisels to take up the distance and then a pair of screwdrivers- opposed to way that chisels are placed.
Tightenning up has to to be evenly made.
Years ago, I extracted a flywheel/clutch on a 997cc Mini cooper which had fretted onto the crankshaft. There was a 1/2" drilled plate with three High Tensile bolts almost snapping and the extractor bolt was 1" stuff. I lay on the engine whilst my father hit the extractor bolt with a 14lb sledge hammer.
You may have to be prepared to sacrifice the least important part and I suspect that the spindle is the most valuable part. Crack the bearings- if all else fails.
Miner:
Actually Phils got a real good idea that just might work. :beer: A good company with a press would certainly know how to use it to not do any damage. But what I meant about using the rod in the collet chuck and tightened in the mills vise was as you've mention pull up on the spindle while tapping on the drawbar. Just don't try to apply too much force with any of this. One way or another that Morse taper should come out. But I'd think Phils idea has the best chance of working.
Pete
David Jupp:
One option is to strip down the mill spindle, apply some force in the correct direction via one of the idea above, additionally warm the spindle (but don't go mad). If done fairly quickly the spindle will expand just a little before the heat penetrate to the chuck arbor. This might just tip things in your favour.
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