Gallery, Projects and General > Oooops!
Stuck Collet Chuck Arbor
ukazak:
--- Quote from: philf on March 09, 2012, 10:21:23 AM ---Is it possible to use the ER32 chuck nut to pull the chuck out?
To try you would probably need to machine a sleeve which would slide over the chuck and then a thick (say 6mm) split washer on top fitting between the sleeve and the end of the spindle.
The significant force generated wouldn't be seen by the bearings at all.
Cheers.
Phil.
--- End quote ---
Thank you for all of you guys, as I was lookin around in the net, and found out that, this is no easy thinking to tacle and still unsolved problem yet, I am not the only one got the stuck arbor the problem. so far Phil's idea of a sleeve and collet nut and combination of some warming might put the end of this globaly suffered dilema. There was even one suggestion that, thake out the drawbar completely and lean the chuck against the side of mill's vice and give slow power turn a while..
The chucks diameter is 33 and height to spindle rim is 72mm. I think it will work but, I hope I got enough power to tighten the nut. Is there any danger of stripping the threts of the chuck or the nut to cause jamming?
Fergus OMore:
I think that I have got it right but there is a 60+ page manual on the net. OK, it will not be a quick solution to strip the headstock down to get at the spindle with attached remaining bits but it all looks possible.
Before this, I would insert a proper close fitting rod down and give it a hard belt or three. What you are doing is you are belting the tapped end of the taper shank with a threaded draw bolt-- and that does not do much. Again, forget the WD-40. All that you are doing is removing the grease from the bearings- which if you go on like that, you will run( Brinell) them-- and have to take the lot to bits anyway to replace them.
Sorry but that is my view- from a distance!
mklotz:
Why does everyone think WD40 is a lubricant? It's a bug spray that can be used to remove stubborn labels. Nothing more.
Pour a dram of warm Kroil down the spindle, wait eight hours, then tap gently with a solid rod.
Jonny:
--- Quote from: philf on March 09, 2012, 10:21:23 AM ---The significant force generated wouldn't be seen by the bearings at all.
--- End quote ---
I beg to differ, whats holding the spindle in? Lower bearing
Three ways, Petes way but push up on drill feed handle whilst giving the drawbar loosened 1 rev a short hard crack. Its a knack not severe brute force but more speed and momentum following through.
The more you do it, the easier it becomes. To give you some idea how easy on MT3 i have changed over 60 times in the last day and half, 1lb hammer permanently left to the side hand held on stale just behind the head, no leverage.
philf:
--- Quote from: Jonny on March 09, 2012, 02:20:43 PM ---
--- Quote from: philf on March 09, 2012, 10:21:23 AM ---The significant force generated wouldn't be seen by the bearings at all.
--- End quote ---
I beg to differ, whats holding the spindle in? Lower bearing
Three ways, Petes way but push up on drill feed handle whilst giving the drawbar loosened 1 rev a short hard crack. Its a knack not severe brute force but more speed and momentum following through.
The more you do it, the easier it becomes. To give you some idea how easy on MT3 i have changed over 60 times in the last day and half, 1lb hammer permanently left to the side hand held on stale just behind the head, no leverage.
--- End quote ---
Sorry Jonny - I beg to differ with you.
I am talking about pulling down on the chuck by pushing the collet nut against the nose of the spindle itself - not the spindle housing!
Also - the chances of stripping any threads are very slim. I tighten up my ER32 collets with a lot of torque applied with 2 big spanners - and my ER32 threads aren't hardened.
Phil.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version