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| WillieL:
--- Quote from: DaveH on February 19, 2012, 03:07:43 PM ---Wong, That is a great start - it looks very good to me :clap: :thumbup: If you have the scribed lines one may not need to centre punch. Just line up the "cross" lines with that 'pointy bit' and in my case with a magnifying glass, then use your centre drill :) :) :) BTW the hole looked perfectly round to me, must be the camera :Doh: Nice photo's well posted :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :beer: DaveH --- End quote --- Wong, I also agree with Dave here. You are off to a good start. I think center punch marks are great if you are going to use a tiny drill bit to make a guide hole for a larger drill. There is no benefit if the size of the chisel tip won't fit inside your punch mark. The chisel tip on a larger drill bit will just skid around on top of the punch mark and can wander off center. In that case, as Dave mentioned just use your scribe lines and center finder to locate the spindle to the work, and then apply your center drill. If I am using a center punch I find I have much better control using a manual (plain) punch and tapping it with a hammer. I can never seem to push exactly straight down using an automatic center punch. It always ends up going off of my mark. :( They are great for quick jobs that don't need a lot of precision though. An optical center punch is a great addition if you have a good one. Other users have discovered that the "cheap" ones aren't very accurate and are a waste of money. Something you might want to consider in the future, and this is just one man's opinion.... I would done those operations in a slightly different order myself. I believe I would have milled the slot in the part first, and then drilled the holes - followed by chamfering them and finally tapping the threads. That way you aren't milling away the chamfers and threads you made previously. And doing the chamfers before threading helps to guide the tap into the hole and makes it easier for the tap to get the threads started cleanly. Any burrs raised will still be below the surface of the part, and won't rub on your other part as it slides. Just my way of thinking anyway. I'm certainly no expert at any of this. You are doing just fine though IMO. :beer: |
| wongster:
Willie, Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I find the automatic ones rather hard to push down. May be the reason why getting the mark on is a hit and miss... The optical punches I saw on Little Machine Shop and another site don't look cheap - but cheap is relative... Regards, Wong |
| WillieL:
--- Quote from: wongster on February 20, 2012, 10:07:24 AM --- - but cheap is relative... Regards, Wong --- End quote --- So true. I only meant don't buy from the bottom of the barrel. IIRC, one of the other members here bought the least expensive "import" optical punch that Enco had to offer. He said the base was missing the cork(?) washer that is supposed to hold it in place, and the base would move on the part as he was trying to hold it. I think he also said the punches were a bit of a sloppy fit in the holes in the base as well. I believe he said another brand didn't cost much more, and was a big improvement over the economy model he first went with. Sorry, I don't remember which one it was though. :scratch: |
| Xldevil:
Hello. The optical center punch I'm using is made by veritas tools. It works great. In the long term,the good tool is always the cheaper one. Cheers,Ralph http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=1,180,42311 |
| jcs0001:
Ralph: Thanks for showing the mt sample you made - looks good to me. John. |
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