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SemiSkilled:
Hi

you could get some 12" 14 teeth per inch blades, one lives in one of my 3 or 4 saws and once I cut some 50mm dia mild steel bar just turn the bar around to give you an easier start.

Lee

PekkaNF:
I hear what you say. I have a small chinese metal cutting band saw that has serviced me well, but luckily I checked first the gearbox (it had tablespoon cocontion of sand debris, detegent water and such). No chinese blade lasted any time, but then I got better blades and learnt to chooce right blade for a job. It is pretty quiet, no irksome high piched whining nor low booms.

But 100mm of ali is pretty tall order for chip removal, I.E. you would need a coarse blade (4*6" band saw will not allow very coarse blade) and flood coolat to leave it chew trough. Under 30 mm of most metals will go so fast that I use spray bottle filled with water/oil emulsion. I tried air nozzle hooked to a compressor right before lower blade guide, but that area is crowded and my compressor is loud.

Now I use variable pitch blade and it is pretty damn good for all but channes and thinnest materials.

PekkaNF

andyf:
Hi Lester, and welcome.

A power saw is a great boon; it lets you get started on projects which you might otherwise put off because of the time and effort involved in hand sawing the piece of stock you need.

I too have a WM180 lathe. If you are interested, I have done a few mods to it to make it easier to use and remedy one or two deficiencies, as shown here: http://andysmachines.weebly.com/

Andy

lesterhawksby:
Gosh, you're that Andy? I'm slightly embarrassed to say, but your site was one of the major reasons why I went for that particular lathe. I had had brief experience of one of the Sieg types seen everywhere, and from your description the WM180 sounded a bit better, so I convinced myself that was the one for me. Is it better? well, I'm not qualified to judge... but I like mine a lot, so far. (That it's all mine has NOTHING to do with it  :thumbup: ) My range of possible choices was quite limited due to space and needing the machine to live upstairs - no half-ton antique beauties for me, sad to say - but this one seemed just about workable in those circumstances, and so it proves. Thanks for putting all that information up on your site, I really appreciate it.

I have decided to hold off on irreversible modification for a while (to hold on to the warranty if nothing else!), but I definitely need to get around to a few more easily un-do-able tweaks. Most of it seems to be a matter of personal priorities or preference rather than absolute necessity (thank goodness) and I'm not really ready to make decisions on that kind of thing yet - but there are certainly a few places that really should have handles rather than needing me to get the allen key out. (When I DO commit to permanent changes, the first thing is undoubtedly going to be a hole to let me reach the oiler on the left-hand leadscrew bearing without having to take the end casing off!)

andyf:
Hope my comments haven't led you up the garden path, Lester, though I did try to be objective and mention the bad points as well as the good ones.

Easiest way to get at that oiler is to remove the cover altogether and store it away in case of any warranty claims. All that's behind it is the unthreaded part of the leadscrew, and there doesn't seem much elf'n'safety point in covering that up when the entire threaded portion is exposed. 

Andy

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