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| wongster:
Lots of info. Letting them settling into my head. May need some files to thin the outer shell for more to pass through... Andy, the gap between the spindle end and the cover is rather small. I think I can file the plastic thing (any name for this protruding circular thing with a hole in it?) shorter to make more space for a thicker bolt head. I believe the bolt head can bear against the end of the spindle though it only measures about 1.5mm in thickness? The hole in the cover is almost 25mm but the alignment is off to one side (spindle bore and the hole in the cover are not concentric). By the way, is the "nut" you mentioned the head of the bolt of the drawbar or it is really a nut to be fastened onto a rod making the drawbar? Pete, the Sherline lathe has MT1 spindle which I mounted tools, collet chuck (ER16) etc. Except when using the faceplate with dead center in the spindle, I use the supplied drawbar. I asked about how can I do with the MT3 spindle bore on the proxxon lathe because I couldn't figure out how to use a drawbar on it. Thanks for clearing the part on its possible use without the drawbar. I've 2 Sherline mills (one CNC'd and one for manual work). May not do vertical milling on the lathe that often unless when need arises. Norman, I just ordered this afternoon (SG time of course :D) a 4-jaw independent chuck and the centre turning accessories. When I bought my lathe, I also purchased the fixed and follower rest (or traveling steady per proxxon website). I did cut external threads on a piece of steel to make a bolt with a short length of stainless (stainless because that was the only piece in my box with close enough diameter) sticked into the bolt head to make a locking lever for the tailstock. Now I don't have to search for the hex key to lock or unlock the tailstock. I'll continue to look for simple projects to do to get the basic right before moving to more complex stuff. The collet chuck for ER32 collets (those that mount onto the backplate of the lathe) will be one I would like to attempt. Most importantly, I want to learn clockmaking. Regards, Wong |
| Fergus OMore:
Good news about getting steadies and a 4 jaw chuck. When you get your copy of GHT you will find lots of small tools described which make your future machining so much simple. Some of the dimensions of drawings will apply to a Myford with a 7" swing but if you photocopy , you can re-dimension them to suit your lathe. Sort of use typewriter opaque fluid and write in the new figures. I do a lot of photocopying pages and put the sheets in transparent covers. You will, of course, do your own thing and discover methods for yourself. Miner( Pete) mentioned work bolted to the saddle- and I agree. The old hands, including GHT, had a chunk of steel or cast iron that bolted on the saddle and they peppered it with holes, sometimes tapped, sometimes bolted to hold work securely and to mill or drill or tap from the headstock. When the bit of metal was too rough with holes, they simply got a new bit of metal- and made more holes. Again, I would make a rear parting tool which GHT describes. Contrary to 'other opinions' GHT developed and developed an old design which I have traced to a gent called Ian Bradley who wrote extensively and wrote amongst other books, one on the Myford 7. Perhaps you should have a look at the Chris Heapy site which shows some of the Thomas work. OK, you will find that Heapy's site is no longer in use but a Japanese worker has sort of brought it back for reference. Actually, I'm making a variant of Thomas's 'mandrel handle' because I made up one, moved my home and workshop and changed my lathe and- well, felt a change to having a neat one was important. You have my E-mail address and I look forward to comments or questions. |
| Miner:
Wong, I can't help you with any information about clock making since I know less than nothing about it. I believe a gentleman by the name of John Wilding? wrote a lot of books about the subject for the hobbiest. Someone else here that's far more knowledgeable could correct my information if it's wrong. Pete |
| andyf:
--- Quote --- Wongster wrote: I believe the bolt head can bear against the end of the spindle though it only measures about 1.5mm in thickness? --- End quote --- Yes, that would be perfectly OK. The surface area at the end of the spindle will be around 100 square millimetres, which is plenty. You won't damage the spindle when you tighten up the drawbar unless you have superhuman strength, and as Pete (Miner) says, it doesn't need to be tightened very much to stop a Morse taper slipping, and overtightening will make it difficult to get the tapered item out of the spindle. --- Quote ---By the way, is the "nut" you mentioned the head of the bolt of the drawbar or it is really a nut to be fastened onto a rod making the drawbar? --- End quote --- Normally, a drawbar is in the form of a long bolt, so I should have referred to the head of the bolt. Sorry I called it a nut; that is because I was forced to use separate nuts on two drawbars (M10 and 3/8" respectively) which I made for my milling machine. Andy |
| wongster:
Norman, thanks. I will. I'm rather up to date with my blog, when I had time in the shop. Each post is usually written about a session I had, mistakes and all - I don't like to hide my ignorance; If I screwed up, I'm honest about it. Pete, I heard of that name. I bought 4 books and 2 DVDs from WR Smith on clockmaking. Will have to postpone this till later. Some topics covered are a little tough for me at this moment. I usually buy when I see things I like, and keep them till I'm ready to work on them in case I forgotten where to get them or they went out of production. This is what I did late last year. I cleared up the last 5 Casio Financial Calculator FC200 (the old model) that is no longer in production. The shop had 5 pieces left and I took them all even though I've 2 in use. I always have 2 in my working bag and would like to have 1 in the office and some spares at home. The aluminium backing tends to go out of shape causing bad contacts in the buttons. I make a living using this model for the last 17 years so might as well keep some spares around. Cost me quite a bit as there are no longer any market price... Andy, no apologies needed. I just want to also learn the lingo for more effective communication. I wonder why Proxxon put a plastic hole in a manner that would hinder the use of a drawbar. Measuring the required length would be a challenge. I'll order a ER32 collet chuck with MT3 shank from CTC Tools and use it as reference to cut the internal taper to make the collet chuck that mount on the backplate. Been reading online in this forum and other sites on how that was done by others. Do you have pics showing how they're put together? It may be easier to use a threaded rod and use nuts at the other end. Don't have to worry about measuring and finding bolt of specific length. Regards, Wong |
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