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| Miner:
Wong, Whenever possible it's better by far to support the workpiece with the tailstock and a dead or live center. Second best would be the fixed steady. If your having problems with your workpiece coming out of the chuck on any lathe then it's time to reasses your working methods. That certainly isn't normal and it would put a massive strain on the chuck jaws and scroll with possibly permanent damage done to the chuck. While you can learn a lot from these forums, There's no sustitute for a decent book. I'm going to recomend one that you'll learn a vast amount from. It really should be read by anyone who owns machine tools no matter what their skill level is. "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual" by George H. Thomas ISBN 1-85761-000-8 This book not only gives the how to do things, But in a lot of cases gives the reasons why things should be done this way. Pete |
| Fergus OMore:
Actually, I have already recommended GHT via the Chris Heapy site which contains a lot of what Thomas made. Again, much of my 'recommendations' are bits out of either MEWM or his Workshop Techniques. It's rather interesting to mention that Bill Bennett, the Editor, was instrumental in me getting my first Super7B |
| Miner:
Well there you go Wong, You now have two recomendations about the same book. I've said this before on another forum, But we as hobbiests sometimes take machining as a hobby far too lightly as far as our education about what were trying to accomplish. Consider the fact that anyone today entering the machining trades as a professional, Then at least 4 years minimum are required as an apprentice just to gain an entry level position as a fully qualified machinist. That apprentiship requires both studying book theroy, classroom time, and hands on continous practice, and then yearly testing. Yet some of the perceptions on forums like these are that you just easily learn everything by trial and error. It's rarely mentioned, But buying as many books as you can and studying them is just another part of what's required in this hobby. I've seen many projects on various forums that even some professional machinists would have trouble duplicating. There's no doubt in my mind that these hobbiests spent a lot of time and effort to educate themselves as much as possible. Now if anyone can provide a logical argument about just why Norman and myself are wrong about this, Then I'd very much like to hear it. Pete |
| Rob.Wilson:
--- Quote from: Miner on January 07, 2012, 04:15:09 PM --- Consider the fact that anyone today entering the machining trades as a professional, Then at least 4 years minimum are required as an apprentice just to gain an entry level position as a fully qualified machinist. That apprentiship requires both studying book theroy, classroom time, and hands on continous practice, and then yearly testing. Yet some of the perceptions on forums like these are that you just easily learn everything by trial and error. It's rarely mentioned, But buying as many books as you can and studying them is just another part of what's required in this hobby. I've seen many projects on various forums that even some professional machinists would have trouble duplicating. There's no doubt in my mind that these hobbiests spent a lot of time and effort to educate themselves as much as possible. Now if anyone can provide a logical argument about just why Norman and myself are wrong about this, Then I'd very much like to hear it. Pete --- End quote --- Very well put Pete ,,,,,,,,,,,,, :thumbup: First place i go for information when faced with an engineering problem or looking for ideas is my collection of engineering books :coffee: Rob |
| wongster:
Hi Pete, Noted your comments. I did a search for the book and finally get it over at Hemingway Kits (hemingwaykits.com). Lots of links are dead or books out of stock. For GBP23 excluding shipping, the price is right. The first link I found has it at over GBP100. The reason I bypass these books (bought a few of the Workshop series) in the past was because most of such books are tied in with a certain brand or kind of machine. I only had the Sherline and therefore found that some stuff weren't appaent to me. As someone new, I get confused. I didn't use a tailstock for this job because the last time I tried on a test piece of brass, I've an error of 0.06mm in about 100mm of turned length (headstock side is larger). Will be playing with the tailstock after I completed this part. Want to do some work first to keep the momentum going. I believe the stock flying out of the sherline chuck was due to my ignorance of what was needed. I am rather gentle when feeding in the tool now and start cranking faster when the feel is right. As those Sherline owners kept telling me, work within the envelope of these machines. I've been reading online and using the forums to learn about machinging from scratch. Some views are conflicting to the others I received. To me, these are common as different people have varying background and experiences. Arguments are good if done cool headedly; very constructive as it gives quite a lot of insights to the topic at hand. Heated argument turns things ugly. The most common topic I often read that insults were exchanged at later part is "Windows Vs Linux". I always like to think "do what you think work best for you". I would like to thank each one of you here that chim in to help a newbie with a new machine out. Keep up the good spirit!!! :nrocks: Regards, Wong |
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