Author Topic: Adding Digital Readouts to my Mill/Drill (Read 23069 times)

cfellows · « **on:** December 26, 2011, 08:09:23 PM »

Starting my own thread on adding Digital Readouts to my Mill Drill. I was inspired by Joe's installation and will copy as much of it as I can.

Although I had the dovetail nuts that fasten the moveable x-table stops, they were pretty thin and the threads were pretty worn. So, I made a length of dovetail key from brass 4" long, 1/2" wide and 3/8" thick. The angle on the sides is 10 degrees. I plan to cut off two short sections and drill and tap them 10-24.

Chuck

75Plus · « **Reply #1 on:** December 26, 2011, 08:55:39 PM »

Chuck, from what I can see of your set up I think you will have to change the dimensions I used for the X axis. If what I am seeing is the gib lock you shouldn't have any clearance issues with it. That chamfer on the table edge will be handy for adding a bead of RTV caulk.

Joe

cfellows · « **Reply #2 on:** December 27, 2011, 12:11:43 PM »

Thanks for the input, Joe. Not sure I'll silicon around the top since I don't use coolant. I'm also considering making it easily removeable so I don't have to leave it in place all the time.

The Y-axis is going to be a real challenge

Chuck

75Plus · « **Reply #3 on:** December 27, 2011, 12:35:38 PM »

Chuck, there is no reason that you could not just firmly anchor just one end of the scale. With the amount of bearing surface in the pick up head if it is carefully aligned and solidly mounted you would not have any problems. You might want to touch the sides of the scale with a 1/8 or 3/16" end mill and move the retaining screws a little closer together so as to ensure the scale stays put.

Joe

Pete. · « **Reply #4 on:** December 27, 2011, 12:56:30 PM »

That's not a challenge - wait 'till you see what I've had to do with my 1950's mill.

Got my y-axis scale bolted up with bits of packing then filled behind with JBWeld before tightening it up - and that's the easy one! I'll put up pics when I've finished it, bound to get some interesting comments.

Race you to the finish Marv!

stovebolt · « **Reply #5 on:** December 27, 2011, 05:57:05 PM »

In the Yahoo Mill-Drill group there is a photo album of a DRO installation on a machine that looks a lot like yours , the "Y" install looks pretty simple. I'm sure you have to join before you can access the pics, It's labeled Bill's new DRO-350.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/?yguid=391225240

Good luck, my X3 "Y" install was the most difficult.

.

cfellows · « **Reply #6 on:** December 27, 2011, 10:13:23 PM »

Made some more progress on the X-Axis today. Quite pleased with the way this is going. Thanks again, Joe, for the inspiration!

In this last picture, you can see that I had to set the DRO bar out a ways from the table so it would clear the newly added front oil cup.

By the way, I was able to get the top edge of the readout bar to within .001" of parallel with the bottom of the x-table.

Chuck

Edit: I just noticed that I need to trim a bit off the bottom of the aluminum blocks that bolt to the x-table. They hang down a little bit and will run into the y-axis slide if I don't take some off.

raynerd · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2011, 04:00:24 AM »

Chuck, what are you going to be using/making/building for covers to protect them from swarf and oil?

Chrus

gbritnell · « **Reply #8 on:** December 28, 2011, 07:26:28 AM »

Chuck,
When I sold my Enco mill I had taken a bunch of pictures for the new owner to use when he put the machine back together. Sadly I deleted them as I didn't think there would be any use for them. I do have a couple from years ago. One show the X reader head and how I attached it to the machine. It was not a direct bolt up but rather an angle plate with a slot cut into it. I then mounted a round post with 2 flats on it to the saddle. When it protrudes through the bracket it can be turned slightly to take any slop out of the connection but still allow a slight bit of movement for any misalignment.
For the Y axis I made a couple of mounting blocks and shimmed them to get the scale reasonably plumb and level. I then added an aluminum arm to the saddle casting. As you can see I added the linkage which has a swivel joint which again will allow for any misalignment.
I hope these help.
George

cfellows · « **Reply #9 on:** December 28, 2011, 10:38:32 AM »

Quote from: craynerd on December 28, 2011, 04:00:24 AM

Chuck, what are you going to be using/making/building for covers to protect them from swarf and oil?

Chrus

The X-axis readout will be covered on top and front with a piece of aluminum angle, similar to what Joe did. The Y-Axis is yet to be determined...

Chuck

cfellows · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2011, 10:40:32 AM »

Quote from: gbritnell on December 28, 2011, 07:26:28 AM

Chuck,
When I sold my Enco mill I had taken a bunch of pictures for the new owner to use when he put the machine back together. Sadly I deleted them as I didn't think there would be any use for them. I do have a couple from years ago. One show the X reader head and how I attached it to the machine. It was not a direct bolt up but rather an angle plate with a slot cut into it. I then mounted a round post with 2 flats on it to the saddle. When it protrudes through the bracket it can be turned slightly to take any slop out of the connection but still allow a slight bit of movement for any misalignment.
For the Y axis I made a couple of mounting blocks and shimmed them to get the scale reasonably plumb and level. I then added an aluminum arm to the saddle casting. As you can see I added the linkage which has a swivel joint which again will allow for any misalignment.
I hope these help.
George

Thanks for the pics, George. Seeing what others have done helps a lot.

Chuck

cfellows · « **Reply #11 on:** December 28, 2011, 02:31:16 PM »

I've got the X-Axis readout so it's functional now. I made a two piece bracket following George's mounting assembly although there's no room for adjustment on mine. However, I think I have it very well positioned so adjustment shouldn't be necessary (famous last words!!!). Let's hope.

I tested the accuracy over 5" using the lead screw as the basis. The difference was about .004" over 5". The mill is 16 years old so the lead screw might be off that much.

Next I'll install the protective covering over the X-Axis assembly using a piece of 1/8" x 1.25" aluminum angle. Wish I had some 1/16", but the 1/8" will have to do.

After that I'll get started on the Y-Axis assembly. I doubt if I'll wind up with anything that looks as clean as the X-Axis. Guess I'll also have to start thinking about mounting the readouts and routing the wire leads.

Chuck

jgroom · « **Reply #12 on:** December 29, 2011, 01:15:26 PM »

Nice clean install Chuck, looks great. I need to get off my rear one of these days and get mine installed on my Index mill.

As to testing the accuracy, I wouldn't trust the dials. I'd set up a dial indicator on the table and compare to that.

Cheers

Jeff

Pete. · « **Reply #13 on:** December 29, 2011, 01:20:28 PM »

I tend to agree with that - my install showed dead-on for the first three turns of the dial then was more in error with successive turns where it got onto the more worn part of the leadscrew.

75Plus · « **Reply #14 on:** December 29, 2011, 08:27:33 PM »

Quote from: cfellows on December 28, 2011, 02:31:16 PM

I tested the accuracy over 5" using the lead screw as the basis. The difference was about .004" over 5". The mill is 16 years old so the lead screw might be off that much.

Chuck

Chuck, let me suggest a simple test to determine how accurate the DRO is in the area where the lead screw is worn.

First, place two objects on the table that you can use an edge finder on. Next determine the edge at one place then set the DRO to zero. Now move the table until the EF contacts the second object. Note the reading but do not reset. Return to the first position and you should be back to zero. Run the check again to check for repeat ability. This setup will allow you to check any part of the travel or section of lead screw.

Joe

cfellows · « **Reply #15 on:** December 29, 2011, 08:40:33 PM »

Thanks, all, for the suggestions.

Got the swarf guard done and installed today. I was originally going to use aluminum angle, but didn't have anything the right size on hand. So, I cut a length of L-shaped steel from a 2" square steel tubing, .060" wall.

Before I drilled the mounting holes:

After I drilled the holes and mounted it to the talble:

Here's a view from underneath:

Chuck

cfellows · « **Reply #16 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:07:01 PM »

Got a good start on the Y-Axis mount. The bar will travel with the y-axis and the read head stay fixed. Unfortunately, I'll have to disassemble the table again to drill and bore holes in the side of the Y-Axis slide.

Chuck

75Plus · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2012, 06:16:17 PM »

Chuck, Please check your PM box.

Joe

fixerup · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2012, 10:35:02 AM »

I was first inspired by Joe, X axis tee slot installation and now Chuck protective cover. Thanks for posting the pictures. Thanks to both of you, I know exactly what I'll be doing next time I' ll go in the shop.

Phil

cfellows · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:03:31 PM »

Finished up mounting the Y-Axis today. This first picture shows some brass drill bushings I made so I could drill pilot holes through the base of the mill/drill for mounting the read head bracket. I used 1/4" brass tubing with 3/16" ID so I could drill 3/16" pilot holes at the correct position and angle.

Here's a couple of pictures of the DRO mounted (minus the guard)

And here is a picture down from the top with the guard (shield) in place. The shield was made with the remains of the square steel tube used for the x-axis gaurd.

Chuck

75Plus · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:24:59 PM »

Darn it Chuck, now I have to remount my "Y" axis so I can use the same type guard that you used.

Your project is really looking good.

Joe

cfellows · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:05:36 PM »

Quote from: 75Plus on January 03, 2012, 05:24:59 PM

Darn it Chuck, now I have to remount my "Y" axis so I can use the same type guard that you used. Your project is really looking good.

Joe

Sorry to cause you extra work, Joe! I actually had a couple of near misses on this part. If you look at the front on view of the Y-Axis mount, you'll notice that the assembly is screwed to the y-axis slide through a couple of slots at the top. These started out as just holes and the first time I bolted it up, I discovered that the readout head wouldn't clear the x-axis lead screw. Thought I was going to have to rebuild the back plate, but quickly thought of elongating the holes into slots and lower the whole assembly by about 1/2" inch. And, now I have the added benefit that the vertical position is adjustable! By the way, that back plate is 3/16" aluminum plate that is about 14" long and 3" wide top to bottom. I've been trying to build things with material on hand and I happened to have that piece.

Chuck

cfellows · « **Reply #22 on:** January 04, 2012, 12:04:25 AM »

I've got the readouts temporarily mounted with magnets. Thought I would try it here for a while. This seems like the best place to put them, easily visible from the front and the right side of the mill. Also, out of the way of everything. If I like like it there, I'll figure out shielding and placement of the wire leads to the readouts.

Anybody who has experience with DRO's see a problem this location of the readouts?

Chuck

Pete. · « **Reply #23 on:** January 04, 2012, 06:17:04 AM »

Looks fine to me, so long as your table handwheel is on the right.

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Author Topic: Adding Digital Readouts to my Mill/Drill (Read 23069 times)