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| compact 8 lathe |
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| BillTodd:
--- Quote ---Start out by getting a couple of socket-head (allen) screws that fit in the threads on your existing chuck, screw 'em in and measure across the outside of the unthreaded bit, note that measurement down, measure the inside, note that down. --- End quote --- Good idea, but if you use a couple of taps (say second-cut and finishing) screwed into the holes, you can get a better measurement across the tap shafts (the shafts are usually ground fairly accurately to the same diameter). Just remember to subtract the shaft diameter (or just zero your digital scale while measuring one of the taps) Bill |
| krv3000:
HI its not a enco its a emco enco do a copy of this lathe |
| Jasonb:
As I said elsewhere use one of your existing backplates that already has the studs in it and measure accross two of them, I think you should get a reading of 62.56mm which if the studs are an exact 8mm (for M8) will give stud centres of 54.56, thus the PCD works out at 63mm. The nose taper is a fraction over 7degrees. J |
| krv3000:
HI thanks jasonb |
| melgump:
I am also in the throes of making a back plate for a face plate for my lathe. I know the angle of my stub is 7 degrees,7 minutes & 30 secs. `cos it says so in the manual. However, a mate of mine,who happens to be a toolmaker, suggested a way of getting the top slide at the right angle. He suggested fixing a dial indicator to the top slide, I am doing so using a magnetic base, so the indicator tip can run from front to rear of the taper at centre height. One then adjusts the top slide angle until the needle is motionless, then the angle is correct. Sounds logical to me, I think! That is as far as I`ve got so far. My taper stub is approx. 12 m.m. long, so I`m hoping this is enough length to get an accurate indication. Cheers, Ray. |
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