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Homemade fixed steady

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Rob.Wilson:
Nicely done Peter  :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

Looks a good sturdy bit of kit  :dremel:




Rob

fatal-exception:
Just a general question here, and no poke at your design Peter, but why are almost all steady rests made with brass guides rather than bearings?

Bluechip:

--- Quote from: fatal-exception on December 23, 2011, 04:51:52 PM ---Just a general question here, and no poke at your design Peter, but why are almost all steady rests made with brass guides rather than bearings?

--- End quote ---

You can use ball-races, but you'll probably  find they tend to cause chatter .. the solid ones seem to damp it out.

I suppose it's the clearance in the ball-race.

Or, at least mine did ...

BC

Stilldrillin:
Stray pieces of swarf often roll between bearing and workpiece.......  :bang: :bang:

A brass pad will, (usually) not allow this to happen.  :thumbup:

David D

latheman:
Well, I used it - the homemade steady that is!

Made a mistake, didn't I. Used the DTI to set the bar true at it's end, setup the steady - and it vibrated somewhat. Later on I realised what I should have done, ie set the bar true at the chuck and then set the steady adjacent to the chuck. Anyway, it worked ok when I did that. So, ok, it's the first time I've used one, and I've learned a lesson.

Anyway, cleaned up the end of the bar, put a centre in, removed the steady and used the live centre instead. Started turning away merrily. All was going swimmingly - until I took too much off. Oh well, it's a good job I bought three times as much as I needed. Second attempt was better.

Discovered that I need to use a clamping device (split tube over the outside and tightened up) to ensure that when the extension is glued in place, it is lined up correctly. Found some old clothes post tube which seemed suitable, but needs the inside boring out. But I haven't got a boring bar.... So make one. I think we've been here before!

Also needed to clamp the tube to the cross-slide, but it does seem rather difficult on the existing cross-slide. However, I did get a replacement T-slotted cross-slide when I bought the lathe, only 16 years ago. The major problem being that I need to transfer over the cross-slide leadscrew and associated parts. Which means drilling and tapping the T-slotted cross-slide.  Then I realised that the new cross-slide gib adjusting screws could not be locked in place, so I now needed to make new, longer, screws that will allow the use of a locknut. Ended up making another guide for my diestock to Stan Bray's design in one of his books.

When will it all end? Will I ever get to extend my vertical drill? And meanwhile the grass is growing, the hut and the porch need some repair work. And my head hurts from banging it against a brick wall.

If I was drinking man, I'd go and get drunk before the price goes up. Otherwise...

Goodnight & Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

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