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| Machining order and method for this part? |
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| John Hill:
At the risk of betraying my almost total ignorance and inexperience amy I suggest that the tricky ramp be done in the lathe as the first operation while you still have a big chunk of metal to hold securely in the 4 jaw. A swing tool (i.e. inverse of a ball turner) could be used to get the 0.75 diameter. You would drill and bore/ream the pendulum hole on the same mounting. John |
| Pete.:
I'm a novice but if I had to make that I'd start with a blank 2" x .75" x .44" (which is over-length), drill all of the holes first inc the pivot hole, then thin&bevel the sides and cut the slot but leave the extended 1/4"end full thickness so I can still lay it flat and work on it without risk of tipping. Then I'd mill off the bottom with a 3/4" endmill to get the .38 radius. I'd also rough out the top curved bit on the same setup. To get the top curved face to the profile described by the toroid I would probably turn an arbor to put in a collet chuck in my dividing head and clamp the piece to that pivot and hand-turn it against a 3/4 endmill in my vertical mill to make the double-curve, feeding in the y-axis gently to bring it up to the mark. I'd then transfer the collet chuck and part to my lathe, hack-saw off the excess from the end, turn the radius on the tip then set the compound to machine the 6 degree angle on the top last of all. |
| philf:
Hi Chris, I needed to put the dividing head on the miller this morning so I thought I'd take a few pictures to illustrate the method for cutting the radius concentric with the pendulum rod hole. The first pic shows a piece of brass mounted on an arbor. The cutting tools is set to the centre height of the dividing head and to approx 3/8" radius. The second pic shows it mid cut - the cut being applied by rotating the dividing head. The third pic is the block with the rad finished. Hope the pics explain it better than words. Cheers. Phil. |
| sparky961:
Very nice, Phil. This is exactly what I was trying to describe. As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words! -Sparky |
| raynerd:
God like - I owe you one, those pictures are perfect and I now get it 100%!!! I am going to give this method a go either tomorrow or Wednesday. I`ll let you know how I get on. I really appreciate the effort. Hey, by the way, I`ve just set up a more permenant stand (based on the stand you gave me) for the stereo microscope (you gave me!!) over my boley lathe. Ohhhh, man, how could you work on watch parts without one!!! I turned down some blued steel to 0.2mm before it snapped. Some chaps over on NAWCC forum recon you can get down to 0.1mm but that would be real tricky. Anyway, I owe you another with respect to that one as well. Cheers Chris |
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