drilling/boring a very long hole?

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75Plus:
1/2" OD X .188 ID steel tube is a standard size that can be found at most steel suppliers. Is there any reason that it could not be used?

Joe

SPiN Racing:
I really appreciate all the feedback guys.

I didnt realise the drills would be 100+ bucks PER DRILL.

I want to make a working prototype.. and see if the idea I have can be functional.. In my head it works. BUt in reality it may not be so functional LOL. I would have to spend 500 or a 1000 in drills only to find that its not functional.

I remember the issues Ade (i think) had with the sump project.. and I have been happily using my peck drilling fixture for holes up to 2" deep. BUT even with that in full peck mode.. the swarf still is a issue in the smaller holes and I broke my share of smaller drills getting used to drilling stainless. (sadly the majority of the material have IS stainless)

I think the option Joe mentioned of simply buying a steel tube with an appropriate ID may well be the simplest option. I can then add on with welding and or machining, a head to the bolt at the proper location, and still have the through hole in the length of it. Cut some threads in it, and harden as needed.

Thanks so much everyone.. THe difficulty of drilling, and COST of drilling.. I think is prohibitive cost and time wise since it doesnt need to be something silly strong like a barrel, to drill it myself.. or pay someone to do it.

SPiN Racing:
Actually a clarification of purpose might work well for everyone LOL.

Mazda rotaries have tension bolts that hold the whole thing together. Like a big dagwood sammich. The bolts on those are around 18" long. They also make a tension STUD kit for them, that has very very hard studs that are a interference fit, and have nuts on the end of them. The studs are appx 18" long as well.

Im not making studs/bolts for that application.. as the hollow stud may have vibration and strength issues. As the factory studs usually have a swirl of silicone in the middle of the shaft to hinder vibration. But I want to do a similar function on a different application.. and need some length to the stud/bolt. SO it needs medium strength and a hollow center. No specific inner bore.. but it will help as weight is a bigger factor. It needs the full length bolt.. and diameter. But instead of making a hourglass stronger bolt.. hollow seems a good idea.. and allows strength to remain resonable vs a skinny high strength bolt.

75Plus:
A 1/2 X 20 thread on the end, capped with an acorn nut and Loc-Tited should retain most of the strength while taking on the appearance of a bolt. That end would also contain any liquid filler without leaks.

Joe

loply:
I think you could make a drill like a gun drill quite easy.

What I would do is get a rod of suitable length which is just a tiny bit undersized, somehow attach a drilling end to it (like the end of a gun drill), and about 3 inches behind that I would put a bush that is the size of the final hole, and another bush another 3 inches behind that.

Then just drill away!

The bushes should keep it on-track once it's entered the hole drilled by the thing.

You will have to clear out the chips quite often.

Only tricky bit is designing/getting/attaching the drilling end...

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