Author Topic: Taywan Mill Drill  (Read 4026 times)

Offline GerryB

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Taywan Mill Drill
« on: August 23, 2011, 08:08:08 PM »
G.Day Each,
I like many of you purchased a Taywan Mill Drill when they were all the vogue.
I purchased mine at the 1984 Model Engineers Exhabition for just over 400 Pounds.
Set it up and started to find out the faults..
The first was the huge belts used in the drive assembly.
These were removed and the pulley wheels machined up to accept the Mini V Belts.
All now much quieter and no loss of power through having to drive the large V belts.
The other annoying problem was the way that the top cover is secured to the main unit.
The security clips work ok but it would seem that they were upside down due to the problem of when you release the clip and fold it up out of the way,
Go around to the other side to attend to the two clips there,the movement of the cover unsettled the other two clips and they now revert to the position where the clip is now under the part that holds the whole unit ready to be secured.
I had visions of removing the clips and the bent holding half and reversing the lot but i would solder on at the speed set and make adjustments to the feed.
Yesterday i needed to adjust the speed due to using a small milling cutter and it came to me,why don't i fit a magnet to the cover so that it will hold up the clip unit.
Found 4 suitable Button Magnets and tried them out,perfect.
No drilling or gluing see photo's
GerryB

Offline dsquire

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Re: Taywan Mill Drill
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2011, 08:49:26 PM »
GerryB

Great thinking Gerry. That is one of those simple things that "why didn't I think of that" comes to mind. That kind of thinking can certainly be used in many places. Thanks.  :D :D

Cheers  :beer:

Don

Good, better, best.
Never let it rest,
'til your good is better,
and your better best

Offline andyf

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    • The Warco WM180 Lathe - Modifications
Re: Taywan Mill Drill
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2011, 03:06:51 AM »
 :clap: Nice one, Gerry - simple. but effective. I'd never have thought of it myself.

I like those toggle clips; I fitted one to hold the gear cover on my lathe closed, and another to hold one end of the chip shield in place, replacing a bolt which was difficult to access.

Andy



Sale, Cheshire
I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short

Offline GerryB

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Re: Taywan Mill Drill
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2011, 06:55:14 AM »
G.Day Each.
Some time ago i fitted a Laser Unit to the Head  of my Mill/Drill in order that i could locate the centre of the work after raising or lowering the Head.
This system worked to a degree but you had to remember to switch on the Laser Unit and aim it at a suitable target.
I have recently worked out a more accurate system that is also user friendly.
First set up your Mill to its lowest usable setting making sure that the centre of the milling cutter is at 90deg to the Table/Column,and lock the Head.
Now locate a suitable spot to drill a hole through the Head and into the Column.
I drilled my Head about 45deg on the left side,see photo.
Now drill a hole through the Head at the selected spot and through the Column.
Open up this hole to near the size of a suitable length of Silver Steel/Drill Rod and ream to size.
Fit the pin(Silver Steel).
Next item is the Target.
This is simply a length of suitable wood or metal about 3" wide and 2 to 3 ft long.
The Target is secured at a suitable position in front of the Mill the further away the more accurate.
Taking into account the power of our Laser as you will have to be able to see the spot or cross from the Mill.
The Target must be in line with the Column if it leans just 1/2deg out of alignment it will make a difference,believe me.
When you are satisfied that the Target is in line with the column set up your Laser unit on a suitable mount secured to the Head and allowing you to line it up on the Target about 2" from the base.
Now slacken off the Head and raise it to what you consider would be the next height
 Aline the spot on the Target Line and tighten the Head security bolts.
Re check the Target and if all is well drill another hole in the Column through the hole in the Head.
Ream to dia and fit the Pin.
Unlock the Head and do the same for the next height,and so on until you reach your desired comfortable height.
I set the distance between holes at 8 turns of the Raising /Lowering Handle starting with the Handle at 6 o'clock and setting at 6 o'clock each time.
After all the setting and drilling is done you will be able to raise and lower the Head without having to use the Laser.
Of course you may want to adjust the height to in between the holes.
No problem,switch on the Laser and set to the Target Line.
I plan to make the Pin and the Holes a Morse Taper in future.
Fitting Morse Taper Female units in the Column and filling up with a suitable Granite/Epoxy filling which i hope will give a more user friendly set up and more stable due to the extra weight.
GerryB