Author Topic: Building a shop (Read 90706 times)

Miner · « **Reply #25 on:** October 01, 2011, 02:58:16 PM »

Very nice job. It looks proffesionally done.

Pete

doubleboost · « **Reply #26 on:** October 01, 2011, 04:03:32 PM »

That looks a propper job

Dont forget to water it
John

ibuildstuff4u · « **Reply #27 on:** October 01, 2011, 11:44:16 PM »

Also don't forget to cut in control joints before the slab cures fully.

Dale P.

miguel aprendiz · « **Reply #28 on:** October 12, 2011, 04:25:58 PM »

muy buen trabajo , puedes visitar www.maquinasbloqueras.com.mx yo fabrico maquinas para hacer block gracias

HS93 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 12, 2011, 06:15:15 PM »

Quote from: miguel aprendiz on October 12, 2011, 04:25:58 PM

muy buen trabajo , puedes visitar www.maquinasbloqueras.com.mx yo fabrico maquinas para hacer block gracias

or

very good job, I can visit www.maquinasbloqueras.com.mx makes machines for block by

Anzaniste · « **Reply #30 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:07:58 AM »

When I built my shed it was insulated with 4" styrofoam and and tong and groove cladding on the outside. I also had the same insulation on the roof. The biggest extravagance I had was I lined out the inside with 3/4" ply which means I can fix any thing any where I want with out looking for the framework to fix to.

The shed is 4x4.5 metres and keeps warm with the minimum of heat in put, you cant beat good insulation.

ChriX · « **Reply #31 on:** October 23, 2011, 11:13:58 AM »

Reasonably slow progress recently (at least compared to the pace we were going at to get the pour done before the end of the 'Summer'), a couple of update photos:

Does anyone know anything about garage doors? I have been given one without a frame or operating gear and am trying to work out what I need to get it mounted. I understand there are various types of operation and I need one that matches the fittings on the door itself.

Miner · « **Reply #32 on:** October 23, 2011, 02:51:42 PM »

ChriX,
That's coming along nicely. Sorry can't help you with the door.

Not sure what design of roof you'll be using, But I'd really recommend NOT going with a flat roof. It's not IF it will leak, It's just when it's going to leak. You may already know that of course.

Pete

buffalow bill · « **Reply #33 on:** October 25, 2011, 04:28:19 PM »

Hi,
Quick answer is yes.
If you mean roller shutter doors, then there is a channel section that runs down each side of the door, for the end of the shutter as it moves up/down. Then if it is electrically powered, there will be two limit switches one for the end of travel down and the other for the end of travel up. These are either positioned down one side of the door or may be on the revolving drum that the shutter rolls onto as it goes up. The other item is a contactor/switch to drive the motor in the direction required, this part could be all integral with the drive motor arrangement and an electronic zapper for up and down directions.
Hope this helps.
Looking good, when is the roof going on???

Bill

Mike Cole · « **Reply #34 on:** October 28, 2011, 08:57:51 AM »

Great build
Bill, I think chris needs to build the walls higher before he puts the roof on

Mike

dsquire · « **Reply #35 on:** October 28, 2011, 10:08:30 AM »

Quote from: Mike Cole on October 28, 2011, 08:57:51 AM

Great build
Bill, I think chris needs to build the walls higher before he puts the roof on

Mike

I'll agree with that Mike.

Cheers

Don

buffalow bill · « **Reply #36 on:** October 28, 2011, 11:59:06 AM »

Mike Don

are you certain about the roof ?

just think about it, the sooner the roof goes on the dryer it will be to build the walls

Bill

dsquire · « **Reply #37 on:** October 28, 2011, 12:14:52 PM »

Quote from: buffalow bill on October 28, 2011, 11:59:06 AM

Mike Don

are you certain about the roof ?

just think about it, the sooner the roof goes on the dryer it will be to build the walls

Bill

Bill

Good point. I definitely want pictures of how they build the walls after they have the roof on. Should be interesting.

Cheers

Don

Mike Cole · « **Reply #38 on:** October 29, 2011, 10:59:13 AM »

I have heard of a new system where they start building the walls from the top down.

Mike

Fredbare · « **Reply #39 on:** October 29, 2011, 04:44:36 PM »

Your doing an excellent job there, stay strong.
Re the garage doors google Henderson Doors, lots of info there.
Regards
John

ChriX · « **Reply #40 on:** November 03, 2011, 05:23:56 PM »

It's funny you should joke about doing the roof first - we considered it! After all it would be a lot easier to build it at ground level, but no easy way to lift it after it's done.

Here's a couple of update photos for you.

SCOOTER · « **Reply #41 on:** November 03, 2011, 06:46:04 PM »

Hi chrix
your doing a good job, i hope the weather don't hold you up, i bet your itching to get it finished and move in

happy days
atvb
scoot

doubleboost · « **Reply #42 on:** November 04, 2011, 06:48:24 PM »

You cant beat a diagonal brace to stiffen things up

Looking very good
John

ChriX · « **Reply #43 on:** November 06, 2011, 02:13:11 PM »

I am very much looking forward to moving in! Just updated my spreadsheet of costs, a bad idea

Anyway, a couple more; thats the frame for the two long walls done as well now - there are 3 panels leaning against the back wall. 3 small walls left to do, these are a bit more work though as each one has a door/window in it. Roughly 350 100mm screws have gone in up to this point (who needs nails!?).

ChriX · « **Reply #44 on:** November 16, 2011, 04:13:33 PM »

Still going...

Thanks for the recommendation about Henderson doors - they were helpful but still couldn't sell me what I need. I am considering getting a standard 7ft door frame and lifting gear and cutting it down the middle to widen it to 10ft!

Another thing I am trying to decide upon is the lighting - I think I am going for 3 rows of 3 6ft single strip lights down the main area, but not sure about the corner. It's hard to tell what's going to be enough without trying it. I can always add focused lights for specific machines/areas though I guess.

buffalow bill · « **Reply #45 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:02:18 PM »

Chrix

Things keep looking better

Bill

John Hill · « **Reply #46 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:40:51 PM »

Great progress Chris!

If I can make a couple of suggestions?

Put in as much natural lighting as you can, translucent roofing sheets are supposed to be good.
Another is to build in at least one strong point, reinforced trusses etc, so that you can easily lift things off your truck or trailer, even if you have an engine lift you might not be able to lift heavy stuff off the middle of your trailer. My last suggestion, which worked out very well for me, is to put power points in the ceiling.

OK, thats enough from me...

Miner · « **Reply #47 on:** November 17, 2011, 02:54:18 PM »

I'll second Bill and John's comments. A question though. It could be the lighting, But is that wood an anti rot type pressure treated wood? With the walls up, That shop is far larger that it first seemed with just the bare foundation and floor pictures.

Pete

ChriX · « **Reply #48 on:** November 18, 2011, 04:26:11 AM »

Thanks for the comments - I like the reinforced truss idea John! That is something I hadn't thought about.

Pete: yes it is all pressure treated 2x4.

Miner · « **Reply #49 on:** November 18, 2011, 04:36:36 AM »

Ok, Obviously I don't know anything about just what the U.K. uses for chemicals in your pressure treated wood. But if it's like what we have changed to a few years ago then I really hope you used stainless steel nails and screws. The new type of pressure treated wood over here will eat up standard screws and nails in around 3 years. Just thought I might mention that.

Pete

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Author Topic: Building a shop (Read 90706 times)