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| AdeV:
02sheslop - that's pretty much exactly how my tailstock clamp works, and the tailstock is absolutely nailed down solidly when the clamp is engaged, I'd have no qualms about using a saddle stop based on the same principle (in fact, my saddle stop works differently, and nothing like as effectively). |
| andyf:
--- Quote from: 02sheslop on September 27, 2011, 04:14:18 AM ---This is how I made my saddle stop. [Drawing omitted for brevity] It's perhaps a bit hard to see whats going on because it's just a sketch, but the dashed line going through the two holes is where a bolt goes and the bottom bar's hole is threaded. The thing is just a removable clamp that pulls the saddle down on the ways, and avoids having to drill holes in the saddle. Thing is that with so many wonderful and elaborate saddle stops out there I feel this is just too simple to work brilliantly, otherwise somebody else would've already thought about it and published the idea. So i'm not too confident in it. --- End quote --- Nothing wrong with that; in fact, I reckon it would be mechanically sounder than one relying for its strength on two small screws holding it to the saddle. And I think that on Pete's lathe the tailstock base may fit between the "wings" on the saddle (admittedly, that feature wouldn't often be needed), so a screwed-on version might occasionally get in the way. How about a further refinement? Two short holes, one drilled into the top of each wing, taking two short pegs sticking out of the bottom of the upper component, so the thing would stay loosely in place when not in use. Then it could easily be removed if it ever got in the way, by unscrewing the clamp nut enough to allow the pegs to come out of the holes and the whole thing to be slid down the bed and rotated 90 degrees to lift out between the ways. Andy |
| Stilldrillin:
--- Quote from: andyf on September 27, 2011, 07:12:26 AM ---How about a further refinement? Two short holes, one drilled into the top of each wing, taking two short pegs sticking out of the bottom of the upper component, so the thing would stay loosely in place when not in use. Then it could easily be removed if it ever got in the way, by unscrewing the clamp nut enough to allow the pegs to come out of the holes and the whole thing to be slid down the bed and rotated 90 degrees to lift out between the ways. Andy --- End quote --- That's a great idea Andy! :clap: :clap: :thumbup: David D |
| PeterE:
Thanks both 02sheslop and Ady for very good thoughts and ideas on this! :clap: :clap: :clap: It verifies that a central clamping contraption is the best way to go to begin with. Andy, your idea on using a loose clamp guided by a couple of vertical pegs for positioning is really good! :bow: :headbang: :beer: This was exactly why I decided to ask before drilling! About my tailstock fitting between the "wings", no it does not. That was why I opted to use that particular space. I think I can actually take it one step further. If the clamp part on the underside of the bed is shaped in the same way as the clamp part of a Myford type fixed steady, it can be turned and lifted/inserted very easily. Back to the workshop to make a new version. The old thing goes into the good-to-have-bin (the round archive) as it went bad anyway. BR /Peter |
| PeterE:
Well, at least some work has been dine in the past period. There is awful little space to work in as is shown below: The tailstock comes right up to the saddle but the mid section in the saddle is free and goes free also for stuff mounted in the tailstock. My interpretation of the drawings and ideas looks like this A fairly simple bit of steel. I had to make a "track" for the cross slide setting screws which narrowed down the width of the saddle clamp "wings". A wide "Countersink" for the hex-head screw was also included. In place at the tail stock it looks quite OK so far. Still a bit to go, but I think this will work out alright. The stop block currently rests on the bed, but I will remove a bit from the bottom to make it rest on the saddle to get a firm clamp down which together with the pegs will secure the saddle. By the way, I will put the pegs in the saddle and keep the holes in the clamp block. Then I don't need to clear out swarf from the holes before attaching the clamp. BR /Peter |
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