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| Lathe help needed |
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| Jasonb:
--- Quote from: Jonny on August 19, 2011, 04:19:59 PM ---Looks a lot more than a few thou to me. --- End quote --- What part are you looking at, I'm looking at the slight tool mark about 1/8" in from the end of the bar. The tool can only just have touched the bar and its leaving a mark about 1/2 way round the bar so runout can only be a couple of thou. which is usual for a cheap chuck. What does the test report that came with your machine say the permissible and actual runout is? My WM280VF is within tollerance and gives 0.05mm or 0.002 at 100mm from the chuck. If its within the stated tollerances you can't really complain to Warco. First thing to do is get yourself a DTI and test the TIR. As For the oil its par for the course on thes emachines, look at mine Still running fine after 3 years just neded a new set of brushes in that time and the oil leaks and chuck runout have not stopped me making this on it J |
| loply:
There's absolutely no reason to think that stock is round to begin with, unless you know it is. Generally round bars aren't round until you make them so. Until then you will cut only on one side if you make a small pass like that. Turn a bar round then chuck it up and try again. Note that I said bar, if you use a tube the act of chucking it will probably egg it up a bit. |
| dickda1:
I'd buy a cheap dial indicator so that you can quantify the amount of runnout that you think you have. We all have to live with some misalignment (tail stock to head stock centers, gibs that are bent or rough, three jaw chucks and drill chucks with appreciable runnout). I would expect a high degree of finish and alignment on a Hardinge or Myford as delivered, but most of us can produce good work with a whole lot less. A good chunk of satisfaction in this hobby comes from understanding the peculiarities of our individual machines, making fixes and additions. Welcome. -Dick |
| Jonny:
Looks no more 1/3 of a rev Jason, look at the jaws. The three stud fixing to back plate, try revolving 120 degrees, if no good try the next 120 degrees, can leave that round in saves removing. Once found, hard mark back plate and chuck. True the jaws have inbuilt errors. |
| andyf:
One point which I don't think has been mentioned yet is that you may find that one of the three square sockets for your chuck key has a mark of some sort stamped beside it. On my 3-jaw, its an "0". In theory, that's the one you tighten up last, to get the minimal runout. However, I suspect the Chinese makers of chucks like yours and mine don't go to the bother of testing each one, but simply bang a mark in at random so it looks as though it has been tested. Andy |
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