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| Parting with cardide tools |
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| PekkaNF:
uuh... It's hard to tell, but here is my experience: I used to use no-brand carbide bits before. Quite a few broke at first contact. I pretty much concluded that it's recyled mystery carbide that is to be blamed. Switched over a brand name and didn't had this happen again. Most carbide inserts don't like "rubbing" or chatter. I have also heard that you eitehr have to use them dry or to flood with coolan, anything between (or hobby standard squirt when coolant has smoked off...) and they became brittle. Believed that, but I haven't conducted any long term test on this subject. Pekka |
| mike os:
will follow wih inerest... i have he same problem...with the same tool with speeds of 500-1200rpm...... just seems to impart more energy into the break rther than make any difference... power & manual feed, coolant or no coolant....my thinking is crap holder, crap bits/ |
| lordedmond:
As others have stated your sfm /revs are to low luck to start at around 600 rpm for that size , I would go to about 1000 and go in under power cranking the speed up on the way in it need to crackle a bit when cutting BTW good speed and a good chip load in required along with a increase in speed as the dia. goes down Stuart |
| No1_sonuk:
I have the same tool, and broke a couple of tips. Now I don't run the machine below 1200rpm, with a decent amount of force, and it works fine. |
| mgj:
I have the same blade and tip I think Uses a GTN xx clone. I part off reasonably slowly, because thats the way I have always done it, and I am not about to change since I get perfect results and a good finish. I have, in the past bust a couple of tips. And like you, when getting near centre, but in both cases the cause was a relatively slender job, which climbed. The answer was tailstock support, and I suspect that that climb has more to do with it than revs - well I think one can be certain of it, because the steel doesn't know what is cutting it, and carbide has few feelings. All that mtters is flex and the rake, and the cutting forces generated, whatever the tool material.. Lathe size? The supplied tips are GTN 2 clones, and they are negative rake tips, which means that relatively they are "harder" to push in which is why its actually very difficult to get them to dig in, at any speed - even the 300rpm I use on the Myford. If you want a smoother feel to the cut, then use a GFN tip, which is dimensionally interchangeable, but is a positive rake tip. Alternatively, increase support/rigidity, and decrease the feed rate as you get near centre. Obviously. |
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