| Gallery, Projects and General > How do I?? |
| Parting with cardide tools |
| << < (4/7) > >> |
| No1_sonuk:
--- Quote from: loply on June 14, 2011, 07:48:38 AM ---I'm fearful of depending on the indexable tool now because if it breaks again I will have to order a £30 blade to fix it, which is the opposite of what I want when I'm halfway through parting off an item on a Sunday afternoon! --- End quote --- This is what a hacksaw is for... |
| AdeV:
I ended up going with Mircona parting off tools; they're available in a wide variety of shapes & sizes and - if you keep an eye on eBay - the holders usually come up for a reasonable price (not that there have been any for a while, ironically). The Mircona hold is much more rigid than the insert-in-blade-in-holder type, and whilst i've lunched a few inserts (mostly on harder stuff, mostly on approaching the centre), I've found them both extremely good at parting off; and also quite useful for other operations (even standard turning!) They cut well on 3 sides, where a blade-type holder would simply bend away. |
| Ned Ludd:
Hi Ade, It's not that difficult to make your own holder for the Mircona style inserts, saves waiting for one to come up on feepay, cheaper too. :thumbup: Ned |
| mgj:
Can you run HHS with a totally neutral top rake. I should think so if you want to. A lot of the indexable tips are negative rake. I've never ground mine at zero - I use about 2-3 degrees positive in HSS. Just enough to get the chip curling out nicely, but not enough (so far) to create any significant inwards pull. That's disaster, because if the feed one applies isn't greater than the tools inwards pull generated by the rake, then the feed nut will/can pull forwards into the backlash of the feedscrew and bingo, one jam up, front or back toolpost. So my solution is very little rake and a good bold feed. I do now use HSS more than indexable - simply because my HSS is ground left and right handed by a couple of degrees, and mostly one doesn't want a neutral front face - I always want to separate a bit from something else, and I want the pip on the bit left behind. Like washers and things, where removing burrs is a real pain. How I grind them - mine are all Eclipse blades. On a Quorn - I doubt you need that precision as long as one has a few card templates - better to be approximatley right than exactly wrong IMO - but I have a Quorn so I use it. Front clearance. Not much. For strength one wants as much as possible under the cutting point, without letting it rub. About 5 deg seems to work. You 'll soon know if it rubs, as you increase the feed. You either have to back off the feed (seriously bad idea see comments above) or add a touch more clearance. (A decently polished .090" Quorned blade is so sharp it will cut pretty much as fast as one can feed in 220M07. I learned that after I spent lots on indexable!) |
| Bernd:
I've always just ground the front clearence and left the top at O°. Worked both on brass and mild steel. Bernd |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |