Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock

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raynerd:
Tim - hope so!
Chuck - any clock on your project list?

Went on to make the pin wheel over the last couple of nights. Still not finished but getting there, just needs pinning. Ok here goes:

Before drilling, I needed to check the drill size was ok for pinning all 60 x 1/32" pins without the need for glue. I used a 0.75mm drill in a piece of test material and it worked really well. I used the drill as a press

Then setup the wheel on the CNC rotab and drilled the holes

Took a bit of a risk as I feel I can make a better job of the crossing out on the mill rather than by hand fully. However, the arbour wasn`t strong enough so risked moving it to another bigger chuck. I managed to centre it and of course checked it before I started any cutting but it worked out well.

Now all the front face and crossing out needs fully cleaning up. Problem is that when it is pinned you can`t really get at it all so the wheel needs totally finishing before being pinned.

andyf:
Nice looking wheel, Chris.

Those holes are very closely spaced; you may need a smaller chuck (a pin chuck?) to press the pins home. .

Did you end up making the 1/32" pins, or did you find somewhere to buy 'em?

Andy

raynerd:
Hi Nick, sorry I should have explained; I just used the chuck on the test one. For the rest I`m going to use a 1/8" steel rod drilled 0.8mm to the depth of the required protruding length of the pin, the pin will be a snug fit. I`ll push the pin in, which will be held in place with a magent on the outside of the steel rod. Then I`ll obviously push the pin home and in an ideal world it should be a good enough fit to locate and pull itself out of the holder!

Sounds good in theory doesn`t it :lol:

I couldn`t find premade 1/32 dowel pins anywhere so I`m going to have to cut them all. Until I had the 1/32" rod in front of me I didn`t realise how thin it was so this really shouldn`t be a problem.

Hopefully a little more progress over the next couple of days.

raynerd:
Just a note on the count wheel. I spent a few hours last night reading Gadget Builders site and his Gearless clock build and he has put an update on the site 10 July, I think acutally based on something we discussed:

So info below direct quote from www.gadgetbuilder.com

--- Quote ---An observation on the count wheel is that the teeth are deeper than necessary. Making the teeth only about 30 thou deep with one tooth more than full depth would make adjusting the pawl to catch the deflector much easier. As it is, this adjustment has little margin for error. The wheel would look much different, of course, with just small triangular notches and one large notch. I used Loctite to secure the count pawl because setting the pickup of the deflector is touchy and it kept getting knocked out of kilter during testing; Locktite in this one spot made life easier.
--- End quote ---

This sounds a really great idea and something he discussed with me via email but trying to follow the build log by John Wilding, I didn`t really want to make any changes to the working plans. Now in retrospect, I am going to rebuild the countwheel to this new design.

When you look at my video of the count wheel moving, all that is actually required is enough depth on each tooth for the 1/32" wire pawl to catch a tooth and pull it forward and then for the same dia wire as a backstop to lock into the back of a tooth. 30thou will be a good enough flat back to the tooth for this to happen and it`ll mean that the deep tooth will look more like one of my normal teeth and therefore having an acceptable slope for the pawls to climb. I can also see how awkward the deflector piece is going to be to set as the difference in drop is so slight. With smaller "normal" teeth it will be a more significant drop and easier to set the deflector to "catch" it.

Rob.Wilson:

--- Quote from: craynerd on July 16, 2011, 03:03:40 AM ---Hi Nick, sorry I should have explained; I just used the chuck on the test one. For the rest I`m going to use a 1/8" steel rod drilled 0.8mm to the depth of the required protruding length of the pin, the pin will be a snug fit. I`ll push the pin in, which will be held in place with a magent on the outside of the steel rod. Then I`ll obviously push the pin home and in an idea world it should be a good enough fit to locate and pull itself out of the holder!

Sounds good in theory doesn`t it :lol:

--- End quote ---

Good plan Chris :thumbup:

Count Wheel is coming along Great :clap: :clap:

Rob

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