Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock

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raynerd:
I started working on the clock again this week, didn`t get very far but here is an update on the bridge plate and pillars:

Marked out the plate:

And roughed to shape with a file:

I then went a made a depth stop for my lathe as described by John in his "backstop" thread

With the backstop, it was easy to get two the same length solving all previous issues when I`ve tried this!

I then drilled a tommy bar hole in the end to ensure we can tighten these onto the back plate:

The bottom end of the pillar is threaded M3 but I had concerns that I couldn`t thread it all the way using a die, I always end up with an untreaded stub so consequently it won`t screw down to the shoulder. I normally just nick this with a parting tool but with only 1/8" of thread, I wanted as much thread as possible. So instead of threading, I drilled and tapped and using loctite, glued in two M3 screws, letting the glue dry and then cutting the thread to size:

As suggested in the plans, to profile the pillar I screwed it into a piece of scrap barstock threaded in the lathe and could then work on the entire length.

And the two finished:

And the pillars and bridge mounted on the backplate:

Next thing is to drill the pivot holes and so it is suggested I remove the pillars and drill through the bridge and packplate together to ensure they are aligned!

kvom:
Is there a reason you couldn't just tap the pillars and screw in from the back? Or drill and ream the plate and loctite the pillar to it?

raynerd:

--- Quote from: kvom on July 10, 2011, 11:02:35 AM ---Is there a reason you couldn't just tap the pillars and screw in from the back? Or drill and ream the plate and loctite the pillar to it?

--- End quote ---

I expect not but the plans showed that they should be threaded and screwed into the plate so like a blind dog I just followed. I wouldn`t have liked to loctited them in place but certainly screwing in from the back would have been easier....I presume there must be a reason as other parts have been held to the back plate like this.

raynerd:
:drool: Starting to look like a clock now. I cut my pivots, burnished them and polished the pivot holes in the frame. Made a nice little pivot holder and split collet and all worked very well. Nice bit of endshake, perhaps a fraction too much but for this clock will work ok. Just came on here to post pictures of the :update:, showing off my results to find that I didn`t have a SD card in this stupid new camera :doh: For some reason it does`t bother telling you there is no SD card present and proceeds to appear like everything is taking like normal :palm:

Anyway, I have a wheel mounted and free turning :D

NickG:
Nice work Chris. I used to turn little spigots on the bottom of stuff but then saw some of Jan Ridders engines just tapped and a screw through so started doing that, it's easier!

our camera does that too - there is a certain amount of internal memory but means you need to connect the usb cable to get them off! As you say, doesn't tell you though! :doh:

Nick

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